Aromaz 017 – Dual DRE test run on 24Vdc

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Uploaded by on Dec 3, 2008

Corrie Lamprecht (aka Aromaz) is showing the upgraded dual system and also the effects when upgrading to 24Vdc. However: The system runs cool – BUT COILS GET HOT IN SHORT TIME!
DANGER !!!! HIGHT voltage. No sound at 12Vdc, but some frequency audible in COILS on 24V

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Science & Technology

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Uploader Comments (Aromaz2012)

  • #24 SWG, 920 turns, 8 Ohm.

    Not critical in any direction about turns, ohm or wire susze.

  • are ur tansistors NPN or PNP

    i tried the circuit and couldnt get it to work, im using the transistors mentioned but hey are NPN

  • 2N3055 - means this transistor has 2xN surfaces. 2N3055 is NpN.

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All Comments (9)

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  • how many turns are on the fluoro tube and roughly wat gauge is it??

  • awesome....keep the videos coming

  • During the on and off transitions of the fluorescent tube, the transformer coupling to the probe causes a rush of current in the probe cable. The probe cable consists of an outer shield and the inner conductor, and acts like a very small capacitor. This very small capacitor gets instantly charged to high voltage by the rush of current, and then it quickly discharges through the scope's input resistance. Off->on causes one spike, and on->off causes the opposite spike.

  • The positive and negative spikes on your scope display are due to a weak transformer coupling between the fluorescent tube and the scope probe itself. This can also be referred to as stray inductance. Inductive couplings respond to changes in current only, they do not react to DC current at all.

    From the point of view of the scope probe, the fluorescent tube looks like a wire with no current, then current, no current, etc. The transitions off-on and on-off are extremely abrupt -> big change.

  • When both channels of the scope are used you can use one channel as an anchor point, or reference point, and then see the time relationship with any other point in the circuit. When you use both channels, you don't get twice as much information, you get 10 times as much information.

    It appears that you have your scope probe lying unconnected next to the long fluorescent tube. In the latter part of the clip you see a regular waveform with positive and negative spikes.

  • Hi Aromaz, I would recommend that you get a 1 ohm resistor and put it in series with the positive output of the battery. Then put your scope probe across this resistor so that you can see the current consumption from the battery. The digital multimeter is unable to measure the pulsing DC current drain from the battery and it showing a wildly inaccurate reading.

    May I suggest that you consider using both channels of your scope. Perhaps one on the battery current and the other somewhere else.

  • An interesting experiment at this point would be to take two 9v batteries (the little ones) put them together in series and time how long they run the system. If the meters are reading a true micro amp draw then these little batteries should run the lights for a long time. If it does not work then something is amiss. If it does----then everyone will to be running to the store to buy parts -- encluding me. I really hope that it works. Nothing that I have built comes close to this.

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