Superflux LED and Luxeon Rebel preview

See the superflux LEDs in action at: http://meltedbutter.users.btopenworld.com/webpics/incar.htm

I found a bulk pack of "superflux" LEDs that I bought about 10 years ago. I've dusted them off to make a lamp.

I plan to run a series string of 50 LEDs off a 240V AC supply via a capacitative ballast.

I've also got a few high power "Rebel" LEDs. I'm just currently working out how to solder them, which is difficult without a proper PCB and hot-air soldering station.

The demo board has 4 luxeon Rebel LEDs connected in series to a 12 V supply. There is no series resistor. Even without any current limiting, the circuit current is only 250 mA. Maximum continuous current for the LEDs is 1000 mA (1200 mA pulsed).

Category:

Science & Technology

Tags:

• Stripboard
• Electronics
• Capacitor
• Ballast
• SMT
• SMD
• LED Lamp
• Light-emitting Diode
• Lights
• Preview
• Trailer
• Surface-mount Technology

[KeithWasHere1]

would one of those little hot plates that you see guys testing the purity of cocaine with (like in the movie Blow where Bob Gothwait he heats the coke to 187 degrees incrementally "Fuck me running 187?")..would one of those be suitable for soldering these? as i do not have a heat gun that can be dialed in (lol i dont have a cocaine hotplate either it's just an idea)

[ChumpusRex]

@KeithWasHere1 I've seen it done that way. But that is not the recommended way.

You'll need a temperature of about 230 C (or about 25 C above the melting point of your solder paste - 206 C is fairly typical). The problem with a hot plate is that, they are slow to heat and cool. The LEDs are very sensitive to high temperature, and will only tolerate a temperature of 230 C for a few seconds before being damaged. A hotplate may not heat and cool quickly enough to solder the LEDs before they burn

[KeithWasHere1]

ok for some reason it says error every single time i respond to you post CHUMPUSREX..so ill ask here (and sorry if you got this question 3 times ..youtube is fubar tonight)..but do you have a part number or makers name for the type of solder paste required?

[ChumpusRex]

@KeithWasHere1 This is what it says in the datasheet:

"Philips Lumileds recommends lead-free solder for the LUXEON Rebel. Philips Lumileds successfully tested SAC 305 solder paste from Alpha Metals (OM338 grade 3 and OM 325 grade 4) with satisfactory results. However, since application environments vary widely, Philips Lumileds recommends that customers perform their own solder paste evaluation in order to ensure it is suitable for the targeted application"

[KeithWasHere1]

@ChumpusRex now does this go both ways..soldering the led to a mounting board and soldering your neg and positive leads to it? (i knew i should of bought the mounted ones..thats what i get for being cheap!)

[ChumpusRex]

@KeithWasHere1 I'd just use a soldering iron and regular solder for soldering the wires to the board. You could use solder paste if you want, but it's much messier.

[high1voltage1rules]

Very nice small LEDs.

I bet there a bitch to solder lol.

Thanx for sharing ya videos.

Cool channel.

Subscribed*

Thumbs up*

[KeithWasHere1]

@ChumpusRex what kind of wattage iron are we talking about? would it be prudent to use one of those cold heat soldering irons? (as seen on tv) i have never used them so i dont know if they are worth a crap,but at the very least they seem safe for the thing your soldering.(rapid cooldown).all i got is a crappy 5 dollar 30watt..it does good but its not the best.

[KeithWasHere1]

@ChumpusRex cool cool cool..thanks man i appreciate that very much..

[ChumpusRex]

@KeithWasHere1 A professionally made PCB with solder-resist is almost essential for these. The best way to home solder these is to use solder paste, and a temperature controlled hot air gun. Place the paste on the PCB. Drop on the LED. Heat up the board with the air gun, with a thermometer attached to the board. Monitor the temperature and increase/decrease the temperature as specified in the rebel soldering instruction sheet.