How To Build Your Own Reactive Target

In this second DIY video I show you how to create your own reactive (or resetting) steel target for under $20 (not including the steel plate). Shooting steel is extremely fun and breaks you from monotony of shooting paper targets. The audible "Ping" created by a hit is good for training purposes, especially at longer ranges, and is also useful in Run N Guns, as will be shown in later videos. One of the main drivers that caused me to make this video was the drive to save you money - a frequent theme that my channel revolves around. Reactive targets from various manufacturers are either cheap (and some are therefore dangerous) and fall apart quickly, or overly expensive (as the market for this type of product is apparently not large enough for companies to offer options at reasonable prices) making reactive targets too expensive for the average shooter's budget. With this design you could build yourself 3 reactive targets for the price of buying one the lowest end models available.

The steel itself can be any of a variety available from a host of different target companies (although I discuss the specs I think are necessary for a safe target). In this example I use a "Steel Challenge" target made by a company called Quality Targets. They have reasonable prices and are a great "Made In The USA" company. The company is appropriated named, as the steel they create is of excellent quality, and the price is right. Please be sure to check out their website, they are now added to my "approved list" of companies who do good business: www.qualitytargets.com

To build the target as shown I used the following materials:
8' of 2x4
3' of 2x4 for the target arm
4-5' of 1x5 ¼ plank
3' of 1x2
½" threaded rod, 15" long
2 bungee cords approximately 24" long
4 large steel nails to be used as stakes
1 Lawn mower/tractor tire
Assortment of various washers, nuts and bolts
3/8 thick, 8" diameter, Steel Challenge target in AR500 steel (Quality Targets - $60 shipped)
Total Price including steel: UNDER $80!!!!!!!

As you can see the design is not anything overly complicated. Using 2x4s I fashioned a base 24" in length. The remaining 2x4s are used are used for width and additional strength, measuring 14". The planks serve to mount on the bottom of the target for added stability. The arm of the target is placed so that when the target plate is seated there is a slight downward angle, approximately 20° to 30°. The steel rod is placed so that the 2x4 arm rests at the aforementioned angle by drilling holes in the 2x4s accordingly. The bungee cords are secured on the back of the 2x4 target arm with a screw and washer and are aligned down along the arm, underneath the target and then connected to the steel rod. The tractor tire has two holes drilled into it with a bolt and nut secured into it so that the tire will seat behind the target arm into 2 holes drilled on the small plank arms which are used to make sure the target arm will fall directly backwards upon impact. Then the steel nails are secured into the ground through 4 holes drilled into the base support planks with a rubber mallet.

At the end of the first section I show footage from the actual shooting of the target.

In the second section of the video I talk a little bit about the science behind shooting steel. It is a little long winded but is a good starting point on the basics on shooting steel. I am not a scientist; everything I talk about is from my own research. I have only recently started in steel shooting and there are not a lot of great sources to find information, so what I tried to do was compile all the relevant details to help those who, like me, are interested in shooting steel. That being said **SHOOT STEEL AT YOUR OWN RISK** I am not responsible for anything that you may try. Follow the directions as the manufacturer of the steel you decide to use instructs. If you are new to shooting steel, I do recommend that you watch the entire second part of the video. The information contained therein, as well as doing your own due diligence is important to steel shooting safety.

If you have questions on the design specs or process, please feel free to get in touch with me via PM or comment. This target is easy to set up and very fun to shoot. I hope that you can create your own target and have just as much fun with it as I have had with mine. Thanks for watching and always, have fun and stay safe!
--NoMoreOp4

Category:

Education

Tags:

• NoMoreOp4
• steel
• plinking
• reactive
• resetting
• static
• bungee
• tire
• plate
• AR500
• target
• quality target
• fragmentation
• sinter
• frangible
• training
• gun
• shooting
• firearms
• impact
• build
• your
• own
• DIY
• practice
• feedback
• ping
• hit
• visual
• action

[archersfriend]

Not clear as to whether the 2x4 bracket comes with the target or if you welded the mounting bracket on. If it is welded after, isn't the hardness of the target lessened?

[NoMoreOp4]

@archersfriend The bracket comes with the target. I made no modifications to the target itself.

[fusil56300]

Bonjour, very cool. I'm making something like it at work out of tube steel (when the boss aint there!!!). Made a swinging target last month and it works great, I was worried about using tube steel for the frame but as yet no problems. We shoot at 25mtrs so I hope we're safe.

[NoMoreOp4]

@fusil56300 whats the BHN of the steel? Just becareful when trying out new steel. I'd start with low energy calibers at longer distances before shooting too close with anything high powered. And make sure your eye protection is ballistic quality.

[midkhan424]

Softer or longer bungee is need.

[jcm151]

Nice idea.. but that is a ton of work to get the target to move only a few inches. I would do a smaller base, put a back stop a few inches back and use a back push contracting spring in the rear.. If the target would pop all the way down, and reset back up it would be worth the construction i feel. Lot of people don't have access to welders though.. So keep it up.

[crabtrap]

Nice idea for the nonwelders out there. Can i suggest though that you should replace the bungies with hooked end springs from home depot. This would allowseveral advantages such as no shredded cords, and the tension could be tailored to the calibers you use,like one for 223 and one spring for 45.it would also allow the target arm to retract more.your didnt really "react much".the springs are about $4 in the hardware isle

[fusil56300]

@NoMoreOp4....I dont know the BHN but its used to repair/build ships with. Its 22mm thick and the best parts is....its free. I've shot it with 38spl/9mm/45ACP and 44spl with out any proplems. Its the range rules you MUST have eye and ear protection at all times. We shoot from behind a waist high block wall at 25mtrs, and only shoot lead at gongs/steel, no injuries so far. Gonna sub now as I forgot to do it the other day !!!!

[rekenhavoc1]

How about a short piece of angle iron covering the 2x4 just below the plate for low misses. Nice video, thanks

[demka06]

i wonder if you stick a small bungee cord on the bottom of the shooting rail to the back of the base would work instead of taking the chance on shooting them they would be under and out of the way,i dont know its an idea