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Uploaded by on May 29, 2010

There is a metalic in my oil when I inspected closer, I suspect maybe whats gone bad is the pinion bearings or the teeth on the pinion gear unseeable end where the pinion seal is. I am trying to get an idea of what cost I am going to be looking at, the mechanic at the trans shop said yesterday there shouldnt be any play in the big pin that goes through the spider gear housing eeek? , Again the seeable gears are not chewed up and seem to work smoothly, any imput is much appreciated. I thought originally I only needed a rear pinion seal, now I dont have an idea what I should do the projected cost according to the trans shop is unknown they act like it's going to be 2-3 grand maybe more, I need to know better option's and if I do decide to buy an entire rear axle is there places that sell at a better price? This is a 1997 Jeep Wrangler sport 4.0 , isn't this a Dana 44 rear end? Anyway im no axle expert but am just trying to learn and get an idea before I get this thing worked on so I don't get ripped off.
The mechanic said it was rubbing inside I didn't hear that even with the cover off,(Did have rubbing at the brake drums) and even when i started the jeep and put it in 1st letting the tires spin while it's on the jack stands. this was rebuilt not to long ago but I wasn't the one driving the jeep at that time, the guy did say somthing about they said if they were going to keep the jeep along time some side bearing would need to be replaced, I have no idea what he was refering too.
But anyway the reason im posting this is because as I said I want to get an opinion on what will have to be done and what cost I may be looking at and if what seems not normal maybe is normal?
What is the cost for pulling off a rear end and installing a new one?

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Uploader Comments (w8tlftr4u)

  • actually i replaced the outter axle bearings myself and put a new pinion seal, she has no problems till now doing great, fixed the play even.

  • I fixed the problem, all I did after taking out the axles and spider gears is clean it all out, replaced the outer axle bearings, and installed a new pinion seal, I think the total cost was about 100.00, and its running strong. I wasnt able to guage the pounds on the pinion screw so I went 17 turns rather than the 16 1/4th it was at. All seems good no leaks but over tighting and harming the crush sleeve did spook me.

  • The differential had been rebuilt at some point and I was told the the outer bearings would need replacing , I didnt know what exactly the guy was talking about back then, but had to learn by tearing into about all of it. Anyway im no expert on differentials but other than being pretty messy its not rocket science, and if you have the balls to tear into it yourself you could save yourself a ton of money. I think i spent under 100.00 in parts is all.

  • Yea I guess the Dana 35 isn't such a great differential, My Jeep really hasn't been run hard at all no serious four wheeling etc,,, I took out the axles and replaced the outter wheel bearings and put everything back together and it runs fine now fixed the pinion seal leak by putting another pinion seal in but guessed at the tork turning the nut 17 full turns instead of 16 1/4 it was set at. My oil wasnt grey but had metalic color in the oil at the end of draining,very small metal shavings.

  • update, I have removed the axle's and am waiting on new axle bearings via mail, the axle bearings sounded a bit dry although they were not , I know this diff was rebuilt awhile back and the guy said something about the side bearings would need to be replaced, at the time I didn't understand what he was talking about.

    Next after both axle bearings I will attempt to put in a new pinion seal, saw how I mark and count nut turns, but confused about the U bolt removal n drive shaft just comes out ?

  • The spider gears will only ever move at all when one wheel is slipping more than the other. That is an open diff so no it's not a Dana 44 (I think those only came on the Rubicons). You can source a replacement used axle from LKQ parts online, looks like they are about $700 if it turns out the axle is shot. If the gear faces are clean and only slightly scuffed, they are probably OK.

  • @sab73MGB I am also debating on putting dana 44 in if I have to buy a new axel, I saw one I saved for 2200 I believe plus 150.00 shipping cost , but I have no idea what gear ratios I should go with I am running the stock Dana 30 in the front and I assume a 44 in the back would be awsome, but heard from somewhere the gear ratios had to be the same. I have a 1997 wrangler sport, took me till today to understand it is a Dana 35.

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  • @w8tlftr4u Hello Sir, i had been sourcing out in the internet and saw your video. I am actually having the same problem with my rear diff but mine is Ford Ranger Drifter (Asian Spec). When i start driving, there is always a "tok" sound underneath near the diff, and when i jack them up and twist the shaft, it has play same like yours. So i wonder if that play gone after you repaired your diff? regards

  • hi, um i have a 97 wrangler.. everyone and then when i accelerate, i hear clinging and clanging ... is that what was wrong with yours?

  • most time if its squeeks its comin from the front drive line,

  • i hear the dana 35's are problematic. it that true? cuz i got a 35 in my jeep. i also have a leaking pinion seal and some metal particles in my fluid. no big pieces all just small specs. enough to make it look grey.

  • Drive it until it gets worse. Don't sweat the small stuff. Fix the seal, keep it full of oil...

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