YouTube_Upload differential problem (Jeep Wrangler Sport)
Uploader Comments (w8tlftr4u)
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All Comments (20)
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@w8tlftr4u Hello Sir, i had been sourcing out in the internet and saw your video. I am actually having the same problem with my rear diff but mine is Ford Ranger Drifter (Asian Spec). When i start driving, there is always a "tok" sound underneath near the diff, and when i jack them up and twist the shaft, it has play same like yours. So i wonder if that play gone after you repaired your diff? regards
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hi, um i have a 97 wrangler.. everyone and then when i accelerate, i hear clinging and clanging ... is that what was wrong with yours?
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most time if its squeeks its comin from the front drive line,
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i hear the dana 35's are problematic. it that true? cuz i got a 35 in my jeep. i also have a leaking pinion seal and some metal particles in my fluid. no big pieces all just small specs. enough to make it look grey.
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Drive it until it gets worse. Don't sweat the small stuff. Fix the seal, keep it full of oil...
actually i replaced the outter axle bearings myself and put a new pinion seal, she has no problems till now doing great, fixed the play even.
w8tlftr4u 1 month ago
I fixed the problem, all I did after taking out the axles and spider gears is clean it all out, replaced the outer axle bearings, and installed a new pinion seal, I think the total cost was about 100.00, and its running strong. I wasnt able to guage the pounds on the pinion screw so I went 17 turns rather than the 16 1/4th it was at. All seems good no leaks but over tighting and harming the crush sleeve did spook me.
w8tlftr4u 1 year ago
The differential had been rebuilt at some point and I was told the the outer bearings would need replacing , I didnt know what exactly the guy was talking about back then, but had to learn by tearing into about all of it. Anyway im no expert on differentials but other than being pretty messy its not rocket science, and if you have the balls to tear into it yourself you could save yourself a ton of money. I think i spent under 100.00 in parts is all.
w8tlftr4u 1 year ago
Yea I guess the Dana 35 isn't such a great differential, My Jeep really hasn't been run hard at all no serious four wheeling etc,,, I took out the axles and replaced the outter wheel bearings and put everything back together and it runs fine now fixed the pinion seal leak by putting another pinion seal in but guessed at the tork turning the nut 17 full turns instead of 16 1/4 it was set at. My oil wasnt grey but had metalic color in the oil at the end of draining,very small metal shavings.
w8tlftr4u 1 year ago
update, I have removed the axle's and am waiting on new axle bearings via mail, the axle bearings sounded a bit dry although they were not , I know this diff was rebuilt awhile back and the guy said something about the side bearings would need to be replaced, at the time I didn't understand what he was talking about.
Next after both axle bearings I will attempt to put in a new pinion seal, saw how I mark and count nut turns, but confused about the U bolt removal n drive shaft just comes out ?
w8tlftr4u 1 year ago
The spider gears will only ever move at all when one wheel is slipping more than the other. That is an open diff so no it's not a Dana 44 (I think those only came on the Rubicons). You can source a replacement used axle from LKQ parts online, looks like they are about $700 if it turns out the axle is shot. If the gear faces are clean and only slightly scuffed, they are probably OK.
sab73MGB 1 year ago
@sab73MGB I am also debating on putting dana 44 in if I have to buy a new axel, I saw one I saved for 2200 I believe plus 150.00 shipping cost , but I have no idea what gear ratios I should go with I am running the stock Dana 30 in the front and I assume a 44 in the back would be awsome, but heard from somewhere the gear ratios had to be the same. I have a 1997 wrangler sport, took me till today to understand it is a Dana 35.
w8tlftr4u 1 year ago