How to Rig an Autoblock Rappel Backup

This video tech tip describes how to rig an autoblock friction hitch as a backup in a rappel system. We often use this system to increase our margin of safety when rappelling. The backup gives us some extra peace of mind anytime the rope is difficult to hold onto or if there is a chance we could accidentally let go of the rope while descending. For example, if there is potential for rockfall or icefall, if the ropes are icy and/or wet, if it is very windy, or if we simply want to stop and take a photo while rappelling down.

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• rock
• climbing
• guided
• instruction
• multi-pitch
• how
• to
• climb
• mountainee

[snocket]

I agree an autoblock is a great tool, and this will work the majority of the time. I do feel however that a extending the rappel device with a short(~12inch) runner and adding a prusik attached to the belay loop is both stronger and more likely to hold.

The problem with your setup is that a simple mistake of unweighting the autoblock can lead to the wraps coming out of order, making it ineffective.

[peakmtnguides]

@snocket

Thanks for your comment. In our video we show a rappel backup that is easy to understand and replicate while still being safe and reliable. It is fine to add a rappel extension as you suggest, but please note the extension does not increase the holding power of the backup. The holding power is determined by the number of times the backup cord is wrapped around the rope. When enough wraps are used, holding power is maintained even if the wraps come out of order.

[peakmtnguides]

@snocket

Thanks again for your comment. If you have additional comments or questions please contact us via email or phone and one of our AMGA certified guides will be happy to chat with you. Thank you.

[chuckyder]

very well explained! I use an autoblock EVERY time I rappel it makes sense, The prusik locks both up and down making the autoblock far superior. the klemheist is also a good hitch to consider, I use the klemheist to ascend on the rope, very strong and moves up easily. I weigh 215 and the knots hold me everytime good video..... keep it dangling.....

[whaaaaateverful]

Perfect demonstration. Thanks.

[RickM1953]

Awesome!!!

[yoggers56]

Thanks - as a complete novice who's never rappelled, that was so well explained I'm sure I could set up the system with no problem.

I really like that you added the particular reasons for this added safety feature.

(I do plan on taking some classes before heading out to do any climbing/rappelling!)