Main Street Electrical Parade in 3D - Part 1 of 2 (yt3d:enable=true)

Disney's Main Street Electrical Parade in Walt Disney World. To view in 2D, click the '3D' button and select 'Right Eye Only' or 'Left Eye Only'

For Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RVg-fTC9wh4

Category:

Entertainment

Tags:

• yt3d:enable=true
• yt3d:aspect=16:9
• Disney
• Parade
• WDW
• Disney World
• Walt Disney World
• Magic Kingdom
• Main St Electrical Parade
• Main Street Electrical Parade
• 3D
• Stereo
• Parallel
• Crosseye
• Anaglyph
• Stereo 3D
• Parallel 3D
• Anaglyph 3D
• Crosseye 3D
• 3D Stereo
• 3D Parallel
• 3D Anaglyph
• 3D Crosseye

[americangirlluvr1999]

the 3D effects don't work with my 3D glasses. they're the black realD 3D glasses from the movies. anyone know why?

[WDWin3D]

@americangirlluvr1999 Hi! Unfortunately, the realD polarized glasses you get when you go to see a 3D movie in the theaters do not work with YouTube 3D videos. I wish they did... I have a dozen pair laying around the house. I believe a special monitor is required to display a polarized image, which is required for those glasses. If you have some Red/Cyan or Green/Magenta glasses (included with most DVDs that are in 3D,) then you will be able to see the 3D effect.

[hznfrst]

Stop squashing the picture just to fill the screen! It looks awful!

[Videito003]

@americangirlluvr1999 You fool XD

[WDWin3D]

@Totono3D when I get a little bolder, I do have another home-made rig that allows for a larger interocular distance. The issue is getting the thing inside the park without drawing too much attention, since the thing is pretty much a large, flat piece of steel. Thinking about using Plasti Dip on the thing to make it less menacing looking. To get the 2-4 meters that you mentioned before, though... looks like I'll need another tripod, huh?

[WDWin3D]

@Totono3D awesome. I am just trying to figure out how to dial in the same center point for both cameras. I'm wondering if a dot of red nail polish in the center of both lcd displays might make it easier... maybe point the cameras at some graph paper, one at a time, to determine the center of each frame.

Another Q: Should the point of convergence be in the mid-ground like I've been attempting, or should it be on the object in the frame that is the farthest away?

Thanks again for your help!

[Totono3D]

What I said before is more for an "in your face" 3D with the cameras 4 meters apart. Placing the cameras about 2 meters apart can work fine too, with less 3D but good enough. For convergence I look for what is in the center one camera and try to place the same center in the other one too.

[Totono3D]

And for convergence i would suggest you use a compass and try shifting about 5° to 15° depending on where your interest point is.

[Totono3D]

Let me put this in perspective, pretend for a while like you could change in size. If you were small your eyes would be closer together, if you were a giant, your eyes would be further apart. So if you wanted to take pictures of a big place like Disney World, think of it like a scale model. To watch a scale model closely but comfortably you would place your face at about 6 inches away (human eyes are 2 to 3 inches apart).

[WDWin3D]

@Totono3D Hi, and thanks for the advice! I could really use your help, I'm a total 3D noob and am still trying to figure things out.

I am using 2 cameras. I understand that subjects that are further away need a larger interocular distance... the home-made rig I was using that night just didn't allow it.

Re: convergence... I try to set my midground subject near the point of convergence, but have trouble confirming this in the field... I end up having to 'eyeball' it. Any suggestions?