How to fix an Onkyo receiver - TX-SR606 - By Ed
Uploader Comments (eddiekern)
Video Responses
All Comments (426)
-
Ed, you are the man. After watching this multiple times I took the plunge.
From waiting 20 mins for a picture and no OST, I now have everything!!
I have a couple of questions if you have time?
How long ago did you do the repair? Is it still ok? There is talk that you need to add 4 x 1uf 50v cap to stop it happening again, have you found this?
-
Fantastic tutorial - I was having the same problems as everyone else and 40 minutes later all sorted. well done Ed! If anyone in the UK is interested I found some perfect capacitors for the job from RS components - Al Cap ZD series - part num 7395623
-
Ed thanks for the fix instruction video, but mine was not a complete success. The HDMI switching was corrected, but the audio crackles and pops after time as the receiver gets warmer. Would replacing the additional five 100 uF capacitors on the HDMI board address the audio portion of the HDMI signal? Ed's instructions were so good that I feel confident enough to try the extra capacitors. Has anyone had this problem or tried the extra capacitor fix for the audio?
-
Ed you rock man
I fixed my Onkyo TX-SR606 hdmi just like you show in your video.
Before, if I turn my TV or receiver off and if I try to turn them back on in 2-3 hours or more, I had to wait 10 to 30 min and it was getting worse with time. And lately just one resolution was passing through 1024x768 (my TV native). No OSD of course, I never had it, even when I bought it brand new.
Now everything is fine-I have OSD, no problem with resolutions and if tomorrow I have to wait to connect Yamaha it is
-
How on earth did you figure out what was wrong with your receiver as well as the steps that were needed to fix it? What was wrong with those five capacitors? Why would replacing them fix the problem? Are the new capacitors superior to the original ones in some way? If so, then why would Onkyo use inferior caps in the first place? Thank you so much, Ed, for posting such great videos with top-notch instruction and useful tips.
-
Thank you very much for the video! I'm a "first time solder" and I'm happy to say all HDMI switches does work now. But sadly the on-screen menu isn't working. Can anyone tell me whitch of the capasitors handle that functin?
-
Before finding this video my SR606 was taking up to 20 minutes to show the video/audio. It would just flash no signal until it "warmed up". My HTCP would only work on 24hz and would NEVER work with 60hz. After watching this guide and replacing 5 of the caps, it now works wonderfully!!!
Thanks so much for the video!!!!
-
Fixed my TX-SR606 this evening :)
Great guide,I re-watched it a few times during my repair just to be sure.
I used 100uF 10V for the main replacements,also bought 1uF 50V polycaps for the regulators,I struggled to get the solder to stick to the regulator tab, so left it for now,didn't want to cook anything.
Replaced the 5 capacitors, board back in , powered up and so far all is great.Quick HDMI switching, and it now passes 1080p through from my blu-ray,where it wouldn't before the repair
Thanks.
-
I was having the same issues as stated above. Watched the video, made the fix and now everything is working great!! I ended up using the caps from radio shack...100uf 35v
-
i have TX-SR577 and,,, i have kind of similar problem,,, more or less,,, i dont get the signal,,, i havent actually tried keeping it on for 10 or more min so,, i dont know if its the same problem,, but i wonder if this fix can work on my reciver as well?
Ed, I appreciate the great video. After replacing the caps (had to use a mix of 35v/50v caps from Radioshack due to availability) the output has a blue tint and the image is heavily pixelated. HDMI switching is fine. I've checked the ribbon cable and all connections and they're good. I've reheated and checked all the solder joints. No change, still blue. One thing I haven't done is completed unsoldered, cleaned up the contacts, and resoldered. Any suggestions?
Thanks again for the great video.
mcmurm11 2 months ago
@mcmurm11 You've done everything I would have done. The only thing I can think to do is to desolder and resolder.
eddiekern 1 month ago
@eddiekern Thanks for the reply. I went ahead and unsoldered/resoldered the caps, no change. Went a step further and removed all 100uf 4v caps and replaced them with Nippon 100uf 10v, high temp (105c), low ESR caps. Still no change. :( My iron is only 30 watts, cheap from Radioshack, and doesn't heat the solder as quick as I'd like, which required longer contact than typical. The only thing I can think of is that I probably overheated a semiconducter somewhere. Not sure where though.
mcmurm11 1 month ago
@mcmurm11 One last repairable possibility is checking the pins on the 3 white connectors on the right, if a pin is bent that could do it. If not, then I truly am out of ideas, sorry it didn't work out for you.
eddiekern 1 month ago
Further to earlier post - a question -
I used 100uF 25v caps from Maplin (UK equiv to Radio Shack). First time I have soldered anything - so a bit messy to begin with! Hopefully okay - but will check back.
Followed instructions - including push down on white connector to remove black wires. All no problem.
My question - if I see all soldering is good - is there a way to check that the caps are working? See my post below where I mention partial success - it's just the XBox composite and OSD.
CharlesUK1 2 months ago
@CharlesUK1 There are some multimeters that measure capacitance. I got one from amazon for about $20.
eddiekern 1 month ago