Helix construction, part 2: Trackwork

This video is part two of our helix construction project. It illustrates how to lay smooth, problem-free flex track in a model railroad helix. For information about installing the roadbed, see Helix construction, part 1: Roadbed. www.trainvidesoandparts.com.

Category:

Howto & Style

Tags:

• Helix construction
• model railroad helix
• model railroad trackwork
• track laying

[JeffJohnston]

I can only speak for my experience. I think the hot glue is unnecessary, and I don't use it. I have not had screws come loose during years of helix use. The ties are not screwed too tight because the plywood does not compress like cork or homasote, which could cause the effect you mentioned. The setup as shown seems to work very nicely, and trouble free, for me anyway. I hope this helps!

[JeffJohnston]

No expansion problems at all. There's a bit of "give" or flex between the attachment screws, so if the track expands, it can flex laterally just a tiny amount. If the track is fully glued down, as some people do, that much flex may not be possible, though I have never glued track down like that so I can't say for sure.

[Silver1Sprg]

I'm getting ready to build my 7th layout. Never tried a Helix, but your video has inspired me to give it a try and I'll have a two level layout in a 10 x 11 foot room (HO).

QUESTION: How do you START the Helix - going from roadbed to just track on wood, and getting the right grade. I know once the first level is done, the rest is easy. I need this answered, cause I'm a bit lost on how to start the grade. Thanks

[JeffJohnston]

@Silver1Sprg - Going from roadbed to just track on wood is a matter of shimming the helix plywood roadbed to the correct track level. See the April 2008 Model Railroader for my article "Construct a Simple and Reliable Helix" that explains all about starting the grade.

Good luck!

[JeffJohnston]

Elder:

Yes, those screws are obtrusive, and that's addressed in the video (Or I thought it was ...), but since the helix will be concealed, that's not a problem. The system works very well for me. Obviously, the visible trackage on the layout does not use those screws and washers.

[JeffJohnston]

The screws used to fasten the track down are 5/8 inch long, #4 or #6, chosen so the pan head doesn't quite slip through the washer, while not protruding too far above the washer, either. Visit a hardware store and experiment.

-Jeff Johnston

[2011Maynard]

Nice tip on securing and laying track. I'll use your method, as post repair of helix track is defnitely something I want to avoid, and yours looks to be the best method I've seen to date - Thanks

[dallas184]

are these videos able to be purchased on DVD and what grade is ur helix set at for the climb and will it fit a model double stack train

[Silver1Sprg]

Would you consider putting a little hot glue on the bottom of the track to help hold it in place - besides using the 5/8" screws? I would think after a while, the screws could come loose and or track shift if it's not tight enough. And then too tight will cause the track to bend in the middle causing the rails to come together slightly in some areas??? Or am I making too much of a big deal? I love your helix design. Best I've seen.

[saab93contdi]

Great video thanks & a lovely guy that knows what he's doing.. Thanks again from the UK.!

[dreambuilders48808]

Do you have any problems with track expansion/contraction using welded rail on the helix? This looks like a great system. I'm in the beginning stages of building my layout. Hanging drywall on the walls now.

[njtcoastline]

What type of solider do you use to do track and DCC decoders? And what kind of soldiering iron do you recommend?

Greg