Climbing Tools: Rap Safety- Part 4-The Prussik

Had enough? This is the last of the rappell videos. Almost I still have the skinny rope rap device thing to deal with. In this video I talk about the merits of placing the back-up prussik below the belay device. you have a sister that might want to go out with me?

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[PewseyClimbing]

dont use this method the prusik should be attached below the reppel devise and should be attached to your leg loope

[mikebarter387]

@PewseyClimbing Pewsey is right that the prefered method is to have the prusik below the belay device and attached to the leg loop. It is much easier to unload the prusik after it has been loaded or weighted. It is not wrong to put the prssik above the device.

60% people will have the prussik to LONG when they first hook up a prusik below a device. What happens then is the prussik jams up under the device and never really bites. In a rescue up may want it above if ascending the rope right away.

[mtothectothea]

You can always solve the issue of the prussik getting sucked into the belay device by extending your belay device from your harness using a sling. This will also give you more control generally.

I have never heard of tying a prusik via Euro Death Knot. The double fisherman's knot is used in all cases I've seen. With the EDK you can load the knot in a way that reduces its strength and it can slip.

A short prusik that is permanently tied off with a DF's knot weighs nothing and is always useful.

[mikebarter387]

@mtothectothea All good points. Thanks for adding to the conversation.

The Mike

[Mateyhv1]

@mikebarter387 If the prussik is above the rappel device a Bachmann knot would make it much easier to unload it in a freehanging situation than the more classic prussik knot. You are right about the opposite configuration, the lenght of the prussik sould always be tested before rappeling because it could jam up under the device and would not bite the rope at all, clearly a very dangerous situation.

[ttsaks]

This is a good series for folk who like thinking through procedures and considering their options. Thanks!

[RedDragon0719]

" and if your tired and in mountaineering your probably not thinking right in the first place" haha crazy canucks

[ink357]

look, it's jeff goldblum. he should've used the Jurassic park theme song.

[hellbrainsx]

great video

[oceandojo]

Lot's of good stuff from you. Thank you for posting.