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PYE 9 inch 1946 Television Receiver Pt 2

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Uploaded by on Mar 31, 2009

This is a continuation of the first video demonstrating the 1946 9" PYE television receiver model D16T. I have attempted to explain in more detail the workings of the set and by withdrawing the power supply chassis, the components have become more visible. I have cleaned the volume control and centered the picture with the shuffle plate situated just in front of the focus coil assembly. [ viewing from the rear ]
To demonstrate the excellent quality obtainable from the 405 system 'A' I am playing back a clip from 'Open All Hours' a very popular BBC programme here in Great Britain. You are viewing genuine 405 line television on a 62 year old picture tube. As you can see from the dusty chassis, very little in the way of repairs has been carried out to this receiver. If you have any questions regarding the set, please feel free to ask. ONE NOTE OF WARNING. If you are interested in vintage radio and fancy having a go at restoring one of these or in fact any early receivers you need to note the extreme risk of electric shock from the mains high voltage [EHT] transformer. It will deliver a death blast of over 5000 volts of lethal low impedance power that can remain stored in the EHT smoothing capacitor for a number of hours after switch off. GREAT CARE needs to be taken when servicing and handling these receivers. Take expert advice before attempting any adjustment or repair.
Hope this clears up any queries and you find the two video's of interest. John.

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Uploader Comments (vinylseat)

  • How were you able to show a 625 line video recording. On a 405 line set. Please keep the answer simple as I'm not a technically minded person just interested in television, and its development. I remember the big build up to the BBC 2 introduction of 625 line TV in the 60's.

  • @ludvan64 Hello. A standards converter is required to convert the 625 line CCIR signal to system A 405 lines. From 1969 these were installed at the main transmitters and were HUGE! Technology has moved on and I use an AURORA converter that is about the size of a large match box.. It also produces a test card! No modifications are required to the vintage receiver. J.

  • @vinylseat Thank you. During my search on Youtube I have found that really old sets some 70 years old are still working some German. The inside of a prewar Telefunkan looked so neat and uncluttered compared to the Bush on your video. I had a Ferguson's 12" single channel, and a 19" with a very good pretuned VHF radio, but it the TV always going wrong. I now live abroad, and always buy PHILIPS.

  • @ludvan64 The very first British television receivers were built on similar lines to the German telefunken. Very over engineered and unaffordable to the general public. The Pye 9" set in the video dates from 1946 and was one of the first sets manufactured after WW2 that was considered to be affordable back then to the wealthy. The Pye set is actually very neat, built on two chassis with the connections via octal plugs and sockets. Post war developments were rapid due to radar experience gained.

  • @vinylseat You should see that Telefunken. I'm sorry I don't have the URL. It's valves are so clear, not burnt glass. There is plenty of space between components. In my experience, British sets suffered from the wires insulation corroding due to the cramping, and the heat. That was true of the Ferguson TV we had, and an EkcoU29 Bakelite radio we had. The proof is in the fact that all those famous British brands regretfully don't exist, or are made abroad.

  • @ludvan64 I know the Telefunken set very well. I worked for over 40 years in the television repair trade. The British sets were built to a price and to be honest never suffered burnt wiring when in service. Most of the sets in my collection are around 60 years of age and the wiring is still good. Very few world wide television companies exist today, the sets being made in China or Turkey with just the name badges familiar. The U29 was an entry model and my examples have the original wiring.

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  • Nice tube, but if i remember the tubes never wore out because the set often caught fire....ahhh the good old days, how did anything work ?

  • Sorry, could i rephrase that. I think my aerial socket is like yours, the twin strip. How do i convert coax into the twin strip and where could i get the lead form?

  • ...ariel socket is two tiny little holes, not the coax one like ono the aurora converter. Is this normal, and what is it likely to be dangerous to just plug the set in?

  • Hi,i have got a pye lv20 from 1949. I would like to restore it, but i have noticed that the arie

  • @G1DRP Yes it is incredibly bright but it is only a 9" tube type MW22-7. Mullard/Philips. Some tubes of the period such as the EMI 10" 3/4 ran at around 4.5kv and still gave brilliant pictures. A lot is down to the thickness and make up of the screen phosphor and of course these early tubes were not aluminised. Aluminising requires a minimum of around 8-9kv for the electron stream to penetrate the thin aluminium coating. J.

  • Thanks for the great demonstration John, I have finally got my B16T going although the ' sliders ' are a bit ' iffy ' but am looking for an ECC34 in decent condition as vertical scanning is ' low '.Other than that, I'm very pleased with the results, it was the first model set my family ever owned, and a bespoke table made for it in the late 40's has survived, the same ' footprint ' as the base, so it is now having to bear a lot of weight again !.Thanks for superb interesting uploads,Roger.

  • I've got an Australian PYE television set still works after 35 or so years.

    Its a 12 volt portable set very fancy for its day.

  • @vinylseat I've just bought a Philips 32"LCD which is made in Hungary. My 29" Philips Matchlline is still good after 10 Year of hard service, but its 4/3, and as nearly all films to day are 16/9 I decided it was time for a change.The Matchline was made in Singapore. The worst TV I had was a Panasonic, made in Wales with a Mulard CRT made in France after a few years the picture got a green tint, and I had to repair the remote myself bu soldering fine wires because the printed board cracked.

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