One Piece Neck Build Part 6: Countouring the back of the neck
Uploader Comments (Bobo9977)
All Comments (35)
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Bill, Thanks for the video. After watching your video, I made something similar for my Ukulele necks. It is basically the same concept, but I do it on the side, instead of overhead. This gives a smoother transition to the headstock and heel area. I still have not figured out how to router my heels, that's another jig, I think. To anyone reading this, it takes a LOT of trial and error to get your contour correct. Thanks again, Bill!
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Thank you for sharing your fantastic and intelligent work.
Without doubt, the a best series of videos on this subject.
You are very generous ... a Brazilian from Rio de Janeiro thanks you for it.
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Bill, thanks for quick reply. I see you have used your jig to contour a soft-V onto a birdseye maple neck. That is exactly what I am trying to do. Would you be willing to share yor puck design with me?
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for any scale length neck, or neck thru, the offset size of the pucks would be same (3/4" - 1") off from the taper of the neck. i noticed that the neck itself has still got a flat edge.. would making the pucks the same size as the taper end points (with no offest size) take this right to the edge of where the fingerboard would be? for gibson/jackson/ibanez necks ect.
I am designing some soft V pucks for a project I am doing.
However, one piece of info I find not explained anywhere is the placement of the pivot holes, i.e. the centre ones that are used to rotate the neck.
On the 1:1 scale drawing, the centre hole of the larger puck is about 11/32ths from the dotted line (which is 3/4" from flat edge of the puck) but only about 1/8th on the smaller puck. What determines this spacing?
dlpublic 5 months ago
@dlpublic
Hhmmm, yes the pivots. Actually it has been so long since I designed it I can't say for sure, aside from the fact that I believe it is the combination of the 2 radii of the contour. As long as you keep that location you should be able to design additional pucks without any trouble. Bill
Bobo9977 5 months ago
Would this work for a bass neck as well? and what length would be needed?
MikeUnderwoodonBass 8 months ago
@MikeUnderwoodonBass
Well the fretboard is 23 57/64" + the headstock, so 36" between end plates should work, this of course is just an estimate. I will be building one soon, I have a bass order so I'll let you know.
Bill
Bobo9977 8 months ago
i built this jig and it works great. thanks for the plans. think i am going to modify the pucks and try to get some different contours.
bigkasey 1 year ago
@bigkasey
That sound good, you can modify them based on the original pucks. Also you can keep the neck thicker say 1-1/4" and get a chunkier neck while maintaining the standard "C" shape. Either way its an easy mod.
Bill
Bobo9977 1 year ago