This video shows me designing and building a pullup bar from scratch. I now have a bar that does not show any signs of stress or weakness under the torque of two 200-lb men performing pullups. The bar can probably support two people of almost any weight. Cost for parts is approximately $70-$80, but you will likely also need to invest some money into expanding your toolbox. To correctly design and install a permanent bar from scratch took me seven days and several trips to the store. Using these instructions, you should be able to complete it within 1-3 days.
Since this was my first attempt, it was a learning process for me. As a result I make several adjustments to my choices of materials and tools, especially drill-bit sizes, along the way. These adjustments show my learning process and are a good example of how you should proceed slowly and carefully with this project as there is the potential for making major mistakes such as splitting ceiling joists or injury from a bar that is weak or unstable. Please note, I accept no responsibility for any damage or injury that may occur from your decision to use these plans.
As a result of these adjustments in materials and tools, all of the videos should be watched in sequence before using any of the tools or methods that I use. If you intend to use these instructions, taking notes as I go along is advised. A full, final and correct list of tools and materials can be found in the description section of video #10, which is the final video.
ERRORS AND IMPROVEMENTS:
In video 1 and throughout the project, I incorrectly refer to the ceiling "joists" as ceiling "studs." A stud runs vertically inside walls. A joist is one of the horizontal boards that run from wall to wall to support a ceiling. It is these "joists" that I am referring to when I use the word "stud."
In video 5, at timestamp 3:00, I incorrectly refer to the units of measurement I use as centimeters instead of millimeters.
In video 7, at timestamp 12:45, it is probably easier and better to use the 90-degree than a level for this task.
In video 8, at timestamp 3:44, I incorrectly refer to a 5/16 socket as a 5/16 drill bit.
Important procedural correction: The easiest way to construct and mount the bar is probably not to do precise thread-mounting with a Sharpie marker and assemble it on the mounted oak blocks as you go along, as I do in the video, but to construct it all in one pass, off the blocks, and without using the marker to count threads. To do this, construct both oak blocks and mark the flange and washer outlines with pencil as shown in video 5, but without marking the pilot holes. Install the blocks into the ceiling.
Begin constructing the bar by tightening both "ends" (the flange, nipple, and elbow construction) using the spare-wood method I show toward the end of video 9. Then insert the 48" bar into both ends and hand-tighten the ends as far as they will go, or use the channel-lock pliers. Lightly uncrew one "end" to straighten it in line with the other end and, preferably with a friend, raise the flanges to the oak blocks. Making sure both ends are perfectly in their final positions on the blocks, carefully trace the pilot holes for the size-14 screws for one of the blocks, then remove the bar and drill the pilot holes using the 5/16 socket and a pre-measured 13/64 drill bit so that the ceiling is not pierced by the bit (to "pre-measure" the bit, make sure the bit is pushed all the way into the nut of the power drill. Hold bit alongside the installed block. Place a small piece of tape around bit when it reaches the bottom of the block. When drilling, stop when you approach the piece of tape). Again mount the bar, this time screwing it into the newly-drilled pilot holes, then double-check the tracings of the pilot holes on the other side and adjust if necessary. Unscrew and remove the bar, drill the pilot holes for the second block the same as you did the first, then mount the bar into its final position by using the 12" extension bit (Irwin 90112 Quick Change 12-Inch Extension Adapter) to bypass the protruding 90-degree elbows and flushly screw the size-14 screws into the two flanges to secure them to the oak blocks. This process makes lining up threads and marking the bar with a Sharpie, as shown in videos 3 and 9, unnecessary. It also makes having to remove the blocks to drill the size-14 pilot holes unnecessary.
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How to build a ceiling-mounted pullup bar (Part 10 of 10)by DJSkyede1,228 views
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