Best Sanding Tip For Woodworkers: Sand The Sequence - SOLID WOOD DOOR SERIES - Video 11

Loading...

Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon
Upgrade to the latest Flash Player for improved playback performance. Upgrade now or more info.
11,957
Loading...
Alert icon
Sign in or sign up now!
Alert icon

Uploaded by on May 28, 2010

This is the eleventh video in a detailed series featuring important aspects of finishing, sanding, gluing and clamping a traditional solid wood door. http://AskWoodman.com/

Video 11 includes an important sanding tip for all woodworkers. Woodman's pet peeve? He hates to see machine marks in a finished piece. What's the best way to avoid that? Sand the sequence. Sanding The Sequence, working through the grits, is a huge time saver. Woodman talks about his sanding theory, different grits, and what sandpapers he considers the best on the market today. He also explains why he doesn't use random orbital sanders for most sanding work. Woodman believes a half sheet orbital sander does a superior job to achieve flatness and straightness. Sanding with the Festool half sheet sander is a pleasure and is like sanding on autopilot.
______________________________________

Be sure to check out the other videos in the Solid Wood Door Series. The complete series starts with explaining how to build a stunning tung oil based finish using Waterlox Original. It also shows detailed instruction for how to prep the surface, how to glue and clamp mortise and tenon joints using PC7 and various clamps, how to make blow out repairs, and multiple sanding techniques and philosophy. As a bonus, you'll see my very unique door holding system that spins effortlessly on a rotisserie style mechanism to ensure perfect finish application.
______________________________________

Want to know which tools and products that AskWoodman uses? Interested in learning more woodworking techniques? Read the articles that go with AskWoodman videos at http://AskWoodman.com/.

Allan Little is AskWoodman™
Follow him on twitter, be a fan on Facebook, or subscribe to his blog!
http://twitter.com/askwoodman
http://facebook.com/askwoodman
http://askwoodman.com

  • likes, 1 dislikes

Link to this comment:

Share to:

Uploader Comments (askwoodman)

  • Where can you buy the VSM Vitex Sandpaper?

  • @zardiw I buy the VSM Vitex paper at the Weatherford Co here in Austin. Their # is 512-444-6765. They have a website also. The owner is Jim and the counter industrial salesman is Pete. Great guys. Tell them I sent you. I get the Mirka at Beavertools . com. They are also a pleasure to do business with.

  • I prefer 3Ms Production Fre-cut Gold over both the Vitex and the Mirka.

    NOT to be confused with 3ms "Imperial" line of sandpapers. the production fre-cut gold is the real deal.

  • @backlundguitars Thanks for the info. I will order a some sheets and give it a whirl. I have always found 3M a little frustrating. They have so many products and they vary wildly in quality. Thanks for pointing me to a specific item.

  • Why not start with 60 grit?

  • @GBMorris Vsm/Vitex starts with 80 in their paper backed stock. It is very aggressive. But in my large belt sander, for stock quick stock removal and dimension setting, I mostly use 36. 3M makes a black floor paper called Resonite that comes in rolls and can be purchased down to 24. I was just trying to speak in general woodworking terms when I start the sequence at 80. For the vast bulk of my work it is sufficient for rapid surface setting, but there are always more extreme situations. Thanks.

see all

All Comments (19)

Sign In or Sign Up now to post a comment!
  • great video, thank you

  • @askwoodman Ok, thank you!

    Your videos are absolutely great. I've learned a lot. Keep it up!

  • #3 @strolgen Regarding staining: If I wanted to stain a fine grained wood like maple, I would stain when I get to 150 in the sequence, then continue on and restain at 320. I just can't tolerate swirl and scratch marks in my pieces. Thanks again for commenting!

  • #2 @strolgen I have made hundreds and hundreds of paint grade frame and panel poplar cabinet doors and I always start with 80 to set the faces of the frames and the panels in order to save time and get on with removing the glue and setting a final flatness. If you look at panel sanding in commercial cabinet shops you'll find their first pass is always 60 or 80 to set the shape. Trying to set the shape with 150 on hard maple and white oak (certainly not exotics) can be a daunting task.

Loading...

Alert icon
0 / 00Unsaved Playlist Return to active list
    1. Your queue is empty. Add videos to your queue using this button:
      or sign in to load a different list.
    Loading...Loading...Saving...
    • Clear all videos from this list
    • Learn more