Woodworking #56 - Table Saw Setup/Tuneup (Pt. 2)

In the second and final part of our tablesaw setup series, we continue our quest for fine tuning. Topics include setting the blade bevel angle, adjusting fence alignment with the blade, adjust fence so that it is square to the table, setting up the insert, and lining up the splitter.

Category:

Howto & Style

Tags:

• table
• saw
• woodworking
• setup

[454Casull]

Have you ever found that the parallel tolerance stack-up that comes from adjusting the fence to the slot, which was adjusted to the blade, could result in chatter?

[TheWoodWhisperer]

@454Casull Not in my experience, no.

[jbmccord]

Great video! Thank you. Do you have any tips for adjusting steel wings? I fear a dead blow hammer will overadjust. The steel wings on my new JET saw are also a bit flimsy.

[TheWoodWhisperer]

@jbmccord I would probably use the same technique. Snug up the bolts and give a few taps with the dead blow.

[maddobbo]

So many good tips as always, you're my workshop guru!

You've got a really engaging way of making the videos easy to watch.

[soulvibe2007]

I add a piece of snug fitting scrap wood in the mitre slot and then push the fence against it. Then do the adjustments to the fence, works every time and is quick, also if you keep the scrap wood you can check the fence every month of so. But I guess everyone as there own way.

[masterfenixxx]

everytime i see ur shop, it brings a tear 2 my eye..its so beautiful!..Excuse Me!! *sniFfle* (turns head, fights back tears)

[frost0813]

Learned a couple things here, but have something I'd love you to try. I've found that intentionally setting the fence up to be about 5/1000 wider at the outfeed end makes for far less blade chatter.

[MrMeanderthal]

having the blade, fence and mitre slot perfectly parallel is ok for some operations BUT 90% of the time the NO HEEL set-up is better.. this is the mitre slot on the left drifts away from the blade at the back and the fence drifts away on the right... this is very little, maybe a thou or two.. it stops the back of the blade rubbing on the "keeper" side of the cut..

[Darthbelal]

Clear, concise and to the POINT! That was an excellent presentation.

[bobmedic3214]

@TheWoodWhisperer True if it's only a few thousandths. If it is too far away the blade will pull the workpiece away from the fence like drift on a band saw. I love the videos keep up the good work I have learned a lot from watching them.

[TheWoodWhisperer]

@bobmedic3214 That's actually not accurate. If the fence is just a hair further from the blade at the back, it won't create a taper. The wood follows the fence, not the blade. This method is commonly used to get cleaner cuts and decrease the chance of kickback. But you only want to be a difference of a few thousandths.