Cold Bluing Revisited: Brownell's Oxpho Blue Part 3

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Uploaded by on May 14, 2010

Final part...Hopefully this was a good video for you guys. We will move on to some rust bluing in the very near future.

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Uploader Comments (Iraqveteran8888)

  • very very nice job my friend. i wish i could find oxpho blue and refinish my old browning bss shotgun.

  • @jimifazer I wish there was a way I could get some out to you, but I seriously doubt it is allowed.

  • Nice vid Eric. I still haven't gotten any tanks set up for rust blueing and caustic blueing. Education and life always gets in the way. At least my GED classes start from 6-9pm so I have all day to screw around. lol

  • @Dp908 You don't need a lot to do rust bluing. For small parts and handguns, you can do them on your stove top.

  • Just curious, if you plug the barrel ends and somehow heat the whole piece after prep (in an oven maybe) could you just dip the entire piece in the Oxpho Blue (assuming you had enough of it)?

  • @R0kket You sure could and that would be an easy and quick way to do it. Only problem is the solutions would be contaminated and could only be used for that one time.

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  • Nice job, I think people will be surprised at the finish you can get if you take your time.... Metal prep is the key. Once again, well done. Oh, was that third gun a old remington model 33 22LR?

  • Do you generally need a lot of this stuff? Will 4 or 8 ounces do the job to touch up a few scratches on my Mosin Nagant?

  • @djfedorko I thought about putting mine in the oven at it's lowest temp for a few seconds- has anyone thought of that yet and had the guts to try it?

  • I'm currently working an old Winchester 67. It looks like that last gun you showed at the end of this video...Is that what it is?

  • Can't wait to to do this on my Iver Johnson plinker! Thanks for the vid!

  • Another great series, i started posting some vids because of you. Keep up the great work man!

  • would it be entirely necessary to prep the entire bore of my Mosin Nagant with sanding paper for good results? I figured I could get decent results just degreasing and heating and bluing have you had any success with this approach? Also what type of sand paper were you using?

  • STill wonder why they call it cold-bluing when it requires a lot of heat...

  • If you arent able to polish all the metal to be as shiny as the barrel prior to blueing, will these spots still soak up the blueing solution?

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