This is a; single acting, partial Uniflow steam engine. I built it out of a old air compressor, and mostly stuff that can be made with a metal saw and a drill press. A small lathe would make some o...
This is a; single acting, partial Uniflow steam engine. I built it out of a old air compressor, and mostly stuff that can be made with a metal saw and a drill press. A small lathe would make some of it easier. The intake valve is a poppet whistle type valve. The engine pictured is running on air at 18psi. It picks up speed untill it gets up to about 60psi when the speed of the engine causes the exhaust valve to "float" at which point it becomes true uniflow engine. It is nearly impossible to start it whithout the exhaust valve engaged. At this point I have no cutoff ajustment that can be made while it is running.
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Surely the big disadvantage of the Uniflow engine being that there is always a large amount of compression on the exhaust stroke,thus reducing its efficiency. This was the problem on the early Derr steam cars.
you can not turn an internal combustion engine into a steam engine. The iron rings would rust and seize to the iron cylinder sleeve the first time you let it sit for awhile+ the valves the same to their bores or seats.
this is not so, a tiny amount of oil is mixed wit the steam, covering all the parts with a thin layer of oil. Pretty much all steam engines are made with iron and steel, and the rings are steel. If you were planning on letting the engine sit for awhile, you would want to shut it down hot, and open the drains to let the moisture evaporate. The engine in the video has a secondary exhaust valve that is of a automotive type that has yet to seize or leak.
I was talking about an automobile engine being converted to steam. Water and oil do not mix, and I beleive the rings would seize + the moisture would more then likely end up in the bottom end and there goes your bearings.
A system I am using in my next project (and this would work well with a converted gas engine, provided it had a forced oil lube sys)is to not allow oil to accumulate in the crankcase (something like a Harley Motorcycle dry sump) but scavenge and dry it with the incoming steam through a heat exchanger, before sending it back through. This would also serve to keep the moving parts hot and dry also. There are several vairations of this that would work.
Steam engines have iron rings pitons and cylinders iron bores. You have to lube them with heavy oil 600wt. Go to a steam boat meet and ask around lots of iron engines with iron pistons and rings. Check out a good technology museum. Listen and learn.
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This was the problem on the early Derr steam cars.
Pretty much all steam engines are made with iron and steel, and the rings are steel.
If you were planning on letting the engine sit for awhile, you would want to shut it down hot, and open the drains to let the moisture evaporate.
The engine in the video has a secondary exhaust valve that is of a automotive type that has yet to seize or leak.
the moisture would more then likely end up in the bottom end and there goes your bearings.
A system I am using in my next project (and this would work well with a converted gas engine, provided it had a forced oil lube sys)is to not allow oil to accumulate in the crankcase (something like a Harley Motorcycle dry sump) but scavenge and dry it with the incoming steam through a heat exchanger, before sending it back through. This would also serve to keep the moving parts hot and dry also.
There are several vairations of this that would work.