Trad fall (Heart of Darkness) - Joshua Tree Climbing

hallo my ndtitanlady viewers who dont know about climbing again... this is another different style type of climbing called TRAD ("traditional") climbing where it takes place in a crack climb... and there are no bolts where you can clip in, you have to place cams into the rock and clip the rope in... using that as your protection if you fall.

This climb is called:
Heart of Darkness (5.10a)
Joshua Tree National Park

im fine, i just left some flesh on the climb... my bad

-Natalie D.
youtube.com/NDTitanLady
http://ndtitanlady.dpmblogs.com/

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• ndtitanlady
• Trad
• fall
• heart
• of
• darkness
• joshua
• tree
• national
• park
• climbing
• natalie
• duran

[novatrek]

Bad ass!!

how do I improve my grip???

[Nickitynatnat]

@novatrek i dunno... climb more?

[Tuba408Bass]

natalie! you have inspired me to start climbing! for the past month i've been going to my local rock climbing gym and i think in another 2-3months ill start outdoor climbing!

[Nickitynatnat]

@Tuba408Bass THATS AWESOME! im really really glad you will go outdoors though, the gym is a great place to start and get strong... but outdoors is just the bees knees

[slownsilent]

"It's gross. Done. I think I'm done" -"Iiiii'm thinking its a siiiiign~" (lol @ background music)

[Nickitynatnat]

@slownsilent ironnyyyy

[w35t51d369]

Naaatt please do not go in the middle of no where to rock climb, i dont want something like 127 hours to happen to you, please stay be careful!!!!!

[evanvideo]

@Hiddenfatetoo1 The difference is negligible in terms of the overall force, which w/ the 15' fall is 3.4kN on the piece. Plus, even with letting out a foot or so of rope to allow her to land below the obstacle, and then providing a soft, jumping catch you can greatly reduce the force below that 3.4kN. Judging by the fact it was a thin hands crack, the cams should be holding far more than 3.4kN. I've had a 2kN micro cam catch a fall we calculated to be 3.5kN. Either trust your gear or place more!

[Hiddenfatetoo1]

@evanvideo Once again, hmmm. Let's say she's about 40' up and 5' above her pro. That's about a 10' fall with 40' of rope out. That makes a fall factor of 10/40 or .25. If we give her another 5' of slack that makes a 15' fall with 45' of rope out. 15/45 = .33 fall factor, which of course results in a higher force on her anchor making it more likely to fail.

[evanvideo]

@Hiddenfatetoo1 Well, yes, you would have to worry about a faceplant, but as long as she keeps her feet under her she could prevent that, especially if it's 90 degrees vertical. Also, consider, that the more rope you give, the lower the fall force, and the more likely a piece of gear is to hold. By short roping a fall, you can greatly multiply the force on a piece of gear. I'm surprised she didn't break her shin..

[Hiddenfatetoo1]

@evanvideo Hmmm....three more feet of slack would mean a broken face instead of a scraped shin. Five more feet of slack and a cam that pops would result in a grounder. I don't think in this case more slack would have been wise, despite the cut shin.

[evanvideo]

Awesome looking climb, good job. But from one trad/aid climber to another, make sure your belayer knows when to take slack and when to give it on a fall. Having an undercut like that below you is definitely an example of when the belayer would give you slack to allow you to land below. Remind your belayer that a longer fall does not equal more pain, its what you smash into that equals the pain! lol. sources: many many trad falls and broken bones :(

[ZhengmuWang]

@ndtitanlady Yum....can't wait to try this climb when come to the tree. Hope not to get bailed on this time.

[ndtitanlady]

@Lachsfilet thanks! this was my first ever trad lead

[ndtitanlady]

@ZhengmuWang nay, straight up vert. amazing splitter thin hand and finger crack

[ZhengmuWang]

Is this slightly overhanging? I've put this route on my todo list for spring break.

[Lachsfilet]

good gear placement!