Ghetto looks, badass sound - part 2 - 12" sub 75W in sealed box, more tunes
Uploader Comments (uN1Qu3DZ)
All Comments (18)
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3rd enclosure is yet to be completed, it's a rebuild of the logitech z-5300 sub for a friends' uncle, mains transformer blew and the only way to open the sub box to take it out was a sledgehammer (it was made of thick CARDBOARD+tons of glue!!!). thus new box had to be made. waiting on new xformer to arrive so i can seal the box, but 1st impression sounds good. will be posted here when it's done.
it's a bandpass but it's far from "one-note bass", i expect it to be better than the original.
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2nd set, i adjusted the ports and eq on my crappy set of 8s, and i realized they aren't that crappy. they are hungry of power that i don't have tho. i'll replace them soon anyway, but at least they don't sound like sh*t anymore.
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need any more help, just ask. if you message me your email, i can send the program and sims so you see the graph yourself and adjust if needed.
i only started building based on parameters a few months ago (since i learned to measure the ts params if not available), so far box count=3, but those 3 boxes are the best i ever made. first box, i used a little tv speaker. bass could be heard in the next room, from this tiny 4x2. and it was still able to deliver clean mids and treble. unbelievable.
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i'm not sure you're going to like it, but these things call for a large box.
for both drivers in the same box: 2.65 cu.ft (this is internal volume, account thickness of wood), tuned to 31Hz. port 10.2cm in diameter and 27cm in length. port can be mounted anywhere, there is only one rule: make sure there's at least one port diameter (in this case 10.2cm) between the port and any wall or speaker.
with your 30wpc amp you're looking at 100ish dB down to 30Hz. not bad at all.
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oh, and you shouldn't seal the two drivers from one another, let them share the same enclosure. put the port in the middle and there you go.
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nope, they need more volume. in 0.4 cu ft you'll get midbass but no house-rattling lows. also, i'd suggest a ported enclosure.
as the manufacturer provides all thiele/small parameters, i can design a box for you if you'd like... oh, and that amp is quite small for those subs. they have rather low sensitivity so they'll need a fair bit of power to go loud. they'd need about 150wpc.
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the teslas are 4 ohm, 6" woofer, 4" tweeter, the sub is 8 ohm, box volume 33 liters, you convert that. sub box is made of osb that's 8mm thick. they are all sealed.
the sub is a "bm", it's basically the better of generic brands. it cost $40. if you have seen my earlier vids i also have 2 8s of the same at home, and they suck. the 15 bm eats lots of power, the 12 is the best balance. peak power rating is 350W, RMS should be somewhere around 100-150. it doesn't break a sweat on my 75W amp.
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it doesn't mention it because in the 90s all cards had built-in amps of 1-4wpc. those flimsy computer speakers came around later, till then the soundcards had amps inside so they could be wired directly to your hifi speakers. oh and it does hardware mixing too unlike today's poor onboards. the awe64 is over 10 years old and built upon 20 year old tech, yet it never skipped a beat. on the other hand i've had lots of headaches with onboards, especially on laptops.
I am hopin that it's your camera's mic distortin from the sub and not the sub distorting.....
d3dreaper 2 years ago
obviously it's the cam. otherwise why it would distort only when i put it close to the sub?
i'll try to use a better mike next time.
uN1Qu3DZ 2 years ago