Radiant Barrier Installation - How To Install Radiant Barrier

http://AtticFoil.com - Radiant Barrier Installation - Open-Ridge Staple-Up Method

This video shows the professional installers from www.GreenLows.com installing heavyweight double-sided AtticFoil Radiant Barrier Foil Insulation.

The Open-Ridge or staple up method is usually the best installation method for warm or hot climates. The concept is pretty simple. The roof gets hot and is converted to radiant energy (heat). Radiant heat travels at the speed of light until it is either absorbed or reflected. Normally, the heat is absorbed by attic insulation. By installing radiant barrier attic foil, the radiant heat being emitted by the roof is reflected BEFORE it has the chance to be absorbed by the attic insulation. The result is cooler insulation, less heat gain into the home and a more efficient and comfortable home.

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[tdennison22]

Ed, I live in AZ and desperately need to do this to my attic. It reaches 180 up there and our electric bill hits $400 some months in a 1700 sq ft house. And we keep the thermostat at 78-80. We have the cellulose insulation along the bottom, but I'm sure that could use an upgrade as well. My question is, would it be wise to put an attic fan up there as well, to help disperse the hot air?

[AtticFoil]

@tdennison22 An attic fan may (or may not) be your best option. You don't want to mix exhaust vents. Normally on higher pitch roofs, I like wind turbines - they work great, are easy to install and don't use electricity. On lower pitch roofs, I like ridge vent (assuming you've got enough ridge). First, I'd check to make sure you have soffit vents that are clear and open. Go to my blog RadiantBarrierGuru(d0t) com and read about proper attic ventilation or call us 800-595-8772 for more help.

[CrazyTexan]

If the foil radiant barrier is 97% reflective but their are multiple gaps in the application as shown in the video what percentage of the radiant heat is actually getting reflected as it must be less due to the lack of coverage?

[AtticFoil]

@CrazyTexan Yes, radiant barrier has a cumulative effect. On any one spot, it is reflecting 97% of the heat coming off the roof. The TOTAL heat being reflected is based on the percentage of coverage. 70% coverage = about 70% of total heat reflection from entering the structure. The more coverage the better.

[rclark23]

do you cut the 40 foot length in the attic or outside and bring it up??

Great video btw.

[AtticFoil]

@rclark23 Generally, it's easier to cut large pieces outside the attic several at a time. Visit AtticFoil (dot) com for complete installation instructions.

[AtticFoil]

@mmd1954 There is really no such thing as "Trapping" heat. It is always moving from a hot area to a colder area. If you can keep your attic cooler, then you will keep every thing inside the attic cooler including the pipes in the summer. Installing radiant barrier should definitely help keep the water cooler.

[AtticFoil]

@CrazyTexan Yes, in a cathedral ceiling you will have some thermal bypass from the rafters where three is no AtticFoil® Radiant Barrier. The foil areas will still reflect 97% and you will have some places without any reflectivity. Actual results will vary. For example we have many customers who only put up foil on a West or South slope of their roof and see great results. Radiant Barrier has a cumulative effect, the more coverage the better results. But partial coverage is better than nothing.

[bluefly46]

great install

[bluefly46]

Great install

[mmd1954]

I have a house built in 1960 where the copper plumbing runs through the trusses about 6 - 8 inches from the inside of the roof. (Cold water is scalding in the summer, hot water is freezing in the winter). Even after I insulate the water pipes, it seems to me that if I install the foil, it will trap it the heat and cold even worse.  Do you recommend a different install method for the foil, or some heavy-duty insulation around the water pipes?