A friend and I just finished some impromptu testing of CCH Aliens in actual rock placements. The cams ranged in size and age (both pre and post recall). We yanked on them using a car - and while we don't have a dynamometer (yet) I can tell you that the force was much greater than what you'd get in a typical climbing fall: the car was often yanked backward, the knots in the climbing rope were completely impossible to untie, and the 31-kN carabiner we were using was deformed.
Bottom line: the cams were bomber. There were no cable or brazing failures. In all cases where we pulled to failure, the ROCK failed before the cams did. (These were solid placements in good quality granite.) The cables were all twisted up, the lobes badly deformed (and inverted as the rock blew apart), and the loops pulled into wild shapes - but NO brazing failures, NO cable failure. Just lots of rock dust.
We'll post photos and links to videos as we have time, but you can look at some of the initial photos at at www.geir.com/aliens/
this video has been around for a while, but seriously, thats good stuff right there. i had the same damn thought. videos like this make you feel alot better when climbing. you hope to never have to use you pro to its full extent, but its nice to know what it really can take. im not a car, so feel safe. hahahaha. good job guys.
steve02008 1 year ago
So... how the hell does this have 10,000 views?
ultimatediscdave 3 years ago
Sort of bad for the rock, isn't it?
thebksfriend 3 years ago 2
thats really cool what you guys are doing.........keep it up
jkorte666 4 years ago 2