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Remove A Husqvarna Drive Sprocket

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Uploaded by on Jun 4, 2008

This video shows you how to remove a drive sprocket from a Husqvarna saw. It uses the Husqvarna 350 chainsaw, but the method is the same for most saws with an outboard clutch. Check out http://drivelink.blogspot.com for hints and tips on maintaining chainsaws.

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Uploader Comments (vickersdc)

  • @rider660r: you make perfectly valid points there! I have, in the past, used some rope pushed down the spark plug hole and into the barrel - the idea being that when the engine turns it will squash the rope and not damage the piston crown. Works a treat.

  • @helitoad: some models do use a sprocket with an in-built roller bearing, so you should just replace the entire unit.

  • MarcoFillippo1: Gosh! How to answer this one? I taught chainsaw maintenance, crosscutting and felling using the Stihl MS260 saws for the last 4 years. I've found them to be very easy to maintain (compared to a Husky), but that they seem to need a bit more maintenance than a Husky. Go easy on the chain brake (i.e. make sure you let the chain stop before putting the brake on).

    My Husky 350, now over 5 years old just keeps on going, it doesn't really get the love it deserves!

    Up to you!

  • Hey tsaw1583 - if you were right I'd agree with you...

    You don't have to slacken the chain to remove it - but it makes re-assembly easier.

    Work gloves, not necessary? Perhaps - but as for good working practice, wearing gloves when handling the chain will make sure you don't cut yourself.

    Engine housing / top cover... semantics. It's fairly obvious what I mean.

    Reverse thread / right hand thread - get over yourself.

  • Both Stihl and Makita ground saws are easier - just remove the circlip holding it on.

  • Oké the removing video is great, but where is the refitting video? Or does it thighten itself with the brake on?

  • You'll just need to spin it on (reverse thread) and you'll find that the action of using the saw will naturally tighten up the clutch assembly.

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All Comments (40)

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  • Oil pump on my saw was acting up and this was just what I needed to access it - Thanks much! It is the same basic procedure for the Poulan Pro 16" 35cc. I used a chunk of nylon cord in lieu of the piston stop... worked out great. Really appreciate your video - Like!

  • No real need for a special piston stop.Just remove the plug and pull out all you can of your pull cord and insert all of it you can into the plug hole.

    Might want to tell everyone also,Don't ever run the saw without the clutch cover off.The clutch can and will back off the crank and you wouldn't want to catch any of the clutch at 1000 RPM let alone 12,000 RPM. I've seen alot of morons doing this.

  • Can you put a and do they make a .375 sprocket for the 350?

  • I have tore a lot of clutchs of saws but I would never put anything down the spark plug opening ,good way to bend a crank

  • @vickersdc I'm pretty sure they should be separate as the sprocket is being sold without the bearing. Unfortunately the bearing isn't available from that supplier. Could it have welded itself in place?

  • Thanks for helping me get the sprocket off my 136. Wouldn't have had a clue without your video. Trouble is the roller bearing seems to be part of the sprocket not separate as in your video. I guess it's best to replace both but should the bearing come away from the sprocket and if so how?

    Also how much ware can the sprocket take before it should be replaced?

    Thanks in anticipation.

  • Great video so helpful..Many thanks from Canada.

  • Awesome cheers, I didn't have the guts to do this before, I'm on it now!

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