Aftonroe 5.7 - 6 pitch / belaying off the anchor?

This is the second ascent of Aftoneroe - 5.7 - 6 pitchs. Best climbing for it's grade in the bow valley. But I had a try at belaying directly off the anchor. This is the first time giving it a go. It is a odd thing for me to be doing but once I got the hang of it it was not to bad. Have to admit that knowing your not going to get pulled all over hell's half acre.

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• rock
• climbing
• banff
• canada
• Banff National Park
• outdoor sports
• Sport
• mountain

[MrGlacierNova]

is mark classen related to paige classen?

[mikebarter387]

@MrGlacierNova No relation It is spelt Klassen

[vkelsov]

Dang Joe, haven't seen a vid from you put up in months... glad to hear your still hitting the crags

[mikebarter387]

@vkelsov been a wild summer. Lisa finished the guides program and I was the toughest diaper wrangler in the Bow Valley

[ivanovivan11]

@robbieg543 I've heard from people that use the muter for belaying that if you use it for belaying of ground (the angle between the belayers and the climbers rope is large) it will kink and twist the rope but if you use it like in mike's video and the angle between strands is near zero the rope wont kink.

So I've heard.

(that would be a nice thing to test)

[mikebarter387]

@robbieg543 In this case it didn't but that was a pretty good rope and well broke in. It would certianly be a concern in some cases. I think I will have to try this several more times. It certianly requires the right kind of anchor. The one at the end of the vid with the solid ring bolt worked real well. The chain anchors that flopped around not so much.

[Ensonik]

Thanks Mike.

[robbieg543]

i see... do you find that the Italian hitch twists the rope up?

[mikebarter387]

@robbieg543 For bringing people up yes. Here we are belaying the leader directly off the anchor. That is a horse of a diffrent color. Works best with the locked down ring bolts.

[robbieg543]

Would it not be easier to use the atc in 'guide mode' and belay directly off the anchor that way?