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Schluter Systems Shower System w/preformed Tray Part 2

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Uploaded by on Aug 31, 2009

The second in a three part series. The shower system in this video comes complete with preformed curbs and pan to alleviate the need for a mortar bed or a pre-slope underneath the shower pan. From my experience, the pre-slope underneath the rubber shower pan is nonexistent in most installations, causing water to pool in the shower base and never run down the drain. Imagine 10 years of soapy, nasty water hovering at the bottom of your shower! The Schluter Shower System is completely waterproof and very easily installed. Watch the video and see what you can find out. Visit us at www.CarpetOnePanamaCity.com to learn more...

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  • First, if you're willing to lose a waterproof warranty because you want to use thinset instead, I have to question why. Second, there is absolutely no reason to use a modified thinset at all because the regular thinset creates the exact same bond without the cost. The trick is in the chemistry of the mix. Modified thinset uses latex to extend the drying time to increase the bond strength. You don't need latex to extend cure time when you set on top of polyethylene. The poly does it for you.

  • Not exactly. Kerdi is paper thin, and the most layers that overlap in this video is three. We've installed many of these, and we've never had a problem like you spoke of. In fact, using a 1/4" trowel, I cannot see how three sheets of paper totalling less than 1/16" thick could make a difference.

  • Wouldn't it be better to start with the bottom band and work your way up? That way everything overlaps so water can't get behind it? Am I missing something?

  • @dngrdave2000 With the Schluter system, you only need to overlap the Kerdi by four inches, and it can be either top to bottom or bottom to top. When they are adhered together and overlapped in either direction, water cannot get between the Kerdi sheets. This is atypical to the old method of using roofing felt, but the roofing felt was not adhered together either. Great question.

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  • @carpetonepanamacity The recommended overlap is actually 2", not 4".

  • @vpbubbies I had the same issues. Not only are there that many layers of Kerdi, but also count the thinset below each layer. Wow....they add up. The only way to get around this is to trowel out a thicker than normal layer of thinset under the main sheet parts. And this would no doubt cause other issues.

  • @chicanofighter The Kerdi system is a fully BONDED system. It doesn't matter which layer goes first, as long as everything overlaps at least 2". We have NEVER had a problem with this system. We actually don't double up in the corners (vertically), we make sure each piece "continues" around the plane change.

  • @chicanofighter The Kerdi system is a fully BONDED system. It doesn't matter which layer goes first, as long as everything overlaps at least 2". We have NEVER had a problem with this system.

    

  • This installer is an idiot, he should've put the bottom corners first, and then the long strip corners second so everything can overlap properly

  • Wouldnt you install the corners after the walls and floor?

  • Try using modified mortar like Versabond, instead of the Shluter required "unmodified". You may loose Shluters warranty, but you wont be needing it. Modified mortar is a thousand times stronger than unmodified. Dont worry about it drying, because it will dry.

  • @dngrdave2000 advise, make sure your mix is a wet one! Also, this isnt very good for bonding over blue-board/aqua board, use the cement board instead, the membrane bonds better to that.

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