Magnetic Beastie #21 Plate Passivation

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Uploaded by on Apr 27, 2011

I am going to passivate the Beasties plates before the rebuild. Here is a look at the process. What do you think?

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Uploader Comments (HHOPWR)

  • Larry,

     Try the copper shimstock I mentioned downunder.

    Everyone knows that 'good enough', won't work for you.....

  • @LeeHazleton I am going to buy some now. Seems cheep enough.

  • Larry, it's all about the efficiency. The better the plates, the greater the efficiency. I'm not about to tell you what to do, you already know what to do - the only thing stopping you is the additional time involved.

    If your looking for a quicker way to do all of the plates, cut some slots into a strip of plastic, grab some copper plates and stagger them, place them in a plastic tub, fill it up and hook up the plates SS+ copper- -+-+-+-+-.

    The Beast will Live again...

    Peace.

    Mike.

  • @mikepowers420 Yes Mike, The Beast will live again better than ever.

    Larry

  • I am passivating the plates to keep Iron from leaching under high amp draw.

    Larry

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All Comments (20)

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  • @delvis11

    How long would it take for this to take effect? Do you know of any research documents that I could read to learn about this?

  • Would Nickel Alloy 600 work better than the 316 stainless steel?

    We use citric acid on submarines to remove certain types of scale. Citric acid does taste good...

    Also, what about using a microporous polymere between the plates to allow for separating the O2 and H2?

  • Citric acid is interesting, I have been using cola, LOL, The drain cleaners and such are just to dodgy for me...& cola though I wouldn't drink the stuff, it does clean the plates with a soaking.... I will try this citric acid though, Nice 1.

    Thom

  • Larry, please take my word and media blast the entire plate. This will help the gaskets seal better as well as take you less time to clean up the "BEASTIE" Thanks CNC MASTER..

  • I am thinking this passivation problem is related to the use of high levels of KOH, why I am suggesting the use of high voltage and little or now KOH, or better yet use Potassium Carbonate using 3grams mixed to 1 gallon of Distilled water then use that to dilute further at a rate of 100ml to 1000ml of distilled water for the whole cell. I believe this will correct all passivation problems and your cell will get up to the temps you were looking for and produce much more HHO then you are now.

  • Larry, I would definitely want to see what all 3 surfaces look like under extreme magnification before making any decision of whether to electro-passivate or not. My concern is that by making the stainless positive, it may erode jagged edges that may be desirable.

    Then again, the positive plates will probably erode over time anyway. Hmmmm. I don't know. I just don't know. :-\

  • wheres the conveyor belt dip system when you need it huh?I wonder if any of the Cu was deposited into the ss, or if it stopped on the surface and oxidised. Other than that, a decent sized tube and some kind of metal rack to hang the plates on do 50 at a time? Maybe use a flat coil of #6 Cu on the bottom of the tube for the electrode. Good to see you didnt freeze

  • I would go with the first method. It is easier and will accomplish the same thing. Then get yourself some dry ice and a bucket. Drop the plates in and cover them with the dry ice. Cryogenics align the the molecules for less plate resistance.

  • @HHOPWR - while you are at it, check out the price of the 99.99% pure nickle shim stock. Shim-in-a-can makes some quality stuff.

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