Icynene

Superion insulation performance for increased energy efficiancy and sustainable design

Category:

Science & Technology

Tags:

• insulation
• green
• energy
• efficnat
• design
• home

[d1incharge]

@roweaz Please go to some more foam classes where they teach you BS about "eddie currents". We have two thermal cameras that will take pictures of the superior performance of R-60 vs. typical R-19 foam. B.I.B.S vs open cell. I can send them to you and solve your ignorance real fast if you want? When you can build and test, there is no more BS, and NO we will NEVER put our occupant at the risks of mechanical fresh air, we have done IAQ tests on our few "supertight" homes they can't be trusted.

[d1incharge]

Sure, if conductive heat were they only type of transfer you would have a point.Show me your license number?I can tell you don't have one. You can't cut off "air infiltration" unless you want to fail the required .35 ACH by ASHREA? Or install mechanical ventilation in a tight home and just don't mention that 10 years down the road when it fails, the occupants won't know and it could harm them to live in the home. Your a genious, just cut off fresh air to save money!Our homes have natural .35ACH.

[d1incharge]

Does wind blow through 7/16 OSB? Better put a wind breaker over it! I lived in a 130 year old house in near perfect condition, better require housewrap huh, because if municipalities require it, it must be right. LOL You know who works for municipalities? People too stupid to cut it in private industry where the money is. I have seen it, and you can look it up, overall housewrap does more harm than good.

[camshaftcarb]

@d1incharge Wowsers, you've really opened up a huge conspiracy. Not only has the oil/petro industry brainwashed us all, but they've managed to sneak into every state and municipality in the USA and Canada and bribed them all into making housewrap mandatory minimum code requirement for all new construction. Damn, I see it now. There is no wind barrier in housewrap, is there. Its just lining the pockets of the oil companies. DAMN THEM!!

[roweaz]

d1incharge is is just plain wrong on most of his drivel.  Let's start by saying that done right, most insulation can be very effective. Let's spell some of this out for him so even he can understand. First the equation for heat loss. Loss=(temp diff x area x time)/R-value. Simply running some numbers shows that by R-16 you have slowed loss by almost 94%. Adding another r-16 will save you an additional 3%.

[roweaz]

Using just about any load calculation software, you will find a typical house's heating/cooling load with R-19 in the wall and R-49 in the attic and .5 air changes per hour loses between 35 to 50 percent of its heating/cooling energy through infiltration. Now, would you rather double your insulation to try and save 3% or seal up your building and save 35-50%? Since d1incharge seems to love fiberglass so much, let me point out it's weaknesses.

[roweaz]

Fiberglass insulates by obstructing air flow through its glass fiber arrangement. The more air that passes through it, the more energy you lose, the less effective it's r-value. The greater the difference in inside/outside temp the greater the convective air current produced. Greater convective current means more air passing through your fiberglass. The faster the air passes through the less your effective R-value.

[roweaz]

That is why people going from R-30 to R-60 fiberglass in their attics claim they can tell the difference. The difference in effective R-value savings between the two is 1.5% (true r-30 slows heat transfer by 96.66%, R-60 slows it to 98.33%). On a day with a 50 degree temp difference, that is 83 btus per 100 square feet per hour, or 1000 btus for a 1200 sq ft ceiling, or 1/24th of one ton of heating or cooling.

[roweaz]

Would you notice the difference if your beloved fiberglass was actually performing at R-30 or R-60? Think about it. Second, even if you completely seal the outside of a wall cavity and then completely seal the inside, you will still have convective "eddie" currents within a single cavity containing fiberglass causing it to lose some of it's R value.

[roweaz]

Yes, foam costs more, and if you live in a temperate climate, you may not realize large energy savings. If you live in the 110 degree desert, or the freezing north, you will likely see substantial savings not from out of the box R-value, but from the actual effective r-value. Foam will seal your house from infiltration. Foam does not allow air convection, thus it's R-value stays virtually the same at 0 degrees all the way to 100+ degrees.