Edited version of Touching the Void.
In the mid-80's two young climbers attempted to reach the summit of Siula Grande in Peru; a feat that had previously been attempted but never achieved. With a...
Edited version of Touching the Void. In the mid-80's two young climbers attempted to reach the summit of Siula Grande in Peru; a feat that had previously been attempted but never achieved. With an extra man looking after base camp, Simon and Joe set off to scale the mount in one long push over several days. The peak is reached, however on the descent Joe falls and breaks his leg. Despite what it means, the two continue with Simon letting Joe out on a rope for 300 meters, then descending to join him and so on. However when Joe goes out over an overhang with no way of climbing back up, Simon makes the decision to cut the rope. Joe falls into a crevice and Simon, assuming him dead, continues back down. Joe however survives the fall and was lucky to hit a ledge in the crevice. This is the story of how he got back down.
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Ok. This story is legendary, and absolutely not a myth in any way. Let me be clear; you have NEVER been in this situation. You have NEVER climbed anything remotely as difficult as this. And you have apparently NEVER done much difficult climbing in general, as you would 'assume' a complete stranger would know how to pass a knot. That is not only stupid, it sets a very dangerous precedent for everyone involved. Good luck at the crags, you are going to NEED IT.
ItsMeForAllYouKnow - so sorry for you man. You must have some difficulty with your personality, complexes or whatever... Hope you'll find good specialist to help you. Good luck!
As a non-climber I found some of the other methods you describe hard to follow but this one ("body belay") I get. I think I have to take your point. Do you think the many hours that Simon spent lowering the injured climber resulted in exhaustion that meant that he could no longer problem solve? Joe is very magnanimous about the situation Simon found himself in, all the same. Then again, it is said that they no longer have anything to do with each other.
I'm not a climber at all so I didn't really follow your other descriptions of options available to Simon, but this one ("#6") I do get. I think you've proved your point, which is that, despite the fact that we would like to believe otherwise, Simon merely "lost his head" and in so doing nearly killed his climbing mate?
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the climbing community were wrong for
making simon a judas.