Vehicle EMP protection (getting backup's of the vulnerable parts)
Uploader Comments (SurvivalEngineering)
All Comments (48)
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This is a great video but as a communications engineer Ill tell you no un protected parts in a store or junkyard will be operational after the incident. You must buy the parts prior to the incident and faraway protect them. Mike
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Most Cars are EMP proof
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Ammo cans will not protect the contents. That is a myth that was debunked years ago. Any vehicle with wires is susceptible to EMP.
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The parts should not touch the metal can. Line the metal box with cardboard and you will be fine.
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@smookee408 Retool and redesign your engines and other power source to be free of anything electronics and simplify the electricals and harden them against infinitely high emp bursts. The best is the simplest diesel engine wt the simplest design using almost no electricals and using back up compressor powered air pump to drive a compressed air powered starter and equipped wt analog non-electronic/electrical controls & monitor, & using mechanical fuel injectors and all things mechanicals only!
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What about the performance of an ATV thats in the garage?
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Only components with circuits are able to be fried by emp, that leaves bat out of the game...
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If you interested the Faraday cage may be helpful!
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would te battery be effected?
Hey SurvivalEngineering What do you think about using jumper cables from the chassis ground of your car to the copper water pipes in your house? I know electricity take the path of least resistance. In theory this method should ground your car. Also another thing that I can't seem to find info is on my S&G electronic lock on my safe. How do I protect that?
smookee408 3 months ago
@smookee408
To be honest, not sure on the ground. Haven't looked into it. I think that kind of grounding deal would work for a direct lightning style hit but, I am not sure if an EMP would have the same traits as a straight electrical current.
On the safe issue. I have one too. Got it in a cragslist trade. Nothing really in it because I guess it just seems like a PITA if the batteries just go dead or in the case of an EMP. Maybe it would be alright since the exterior is metal??
SurvivalEngineering 3 months ago
More commentary. One thing I did notice on my safe when I was drilling thru the bottom to mount it to the concrete floor was it's a thin metal shell and a plastic interior liner with some sort of clay making up the bulk of the mass. It wasn't too hard to drill thru with a cordless so, I figured if I needed in and had some time, a round hole pattern with a hand drill then, knock out the hole with a hammer should get access into the safes with the digital keypads.
SurvivalEngineering 3 months ago
You guys rock with the technical info. Thanks for keeping the relevant questions and comments rolling in. _SE
SurvivalEngineering 4 months ago
Ya know Tadow... That sounds feasible to me unless some components were isolated. Thanks for the comment... I had not heard of or considered that.
SurvivalEngineering 6 months ago
Do you know if an EMP would destroy the ignition module?
tinkerjack 8 months ago
@tinkerjack
Hey Jack, My personal rule of thumb is if the electrical system has electronics in it, they would be the weak link. On the ignition module, while i am not 100% positive, I just looked up how it functions and I am going to say that it should be alright as it appears to be a magnetic or Hall Effect signal middleman to the plugs. I am not sure if there is anything in it top overload and fry. I suppose if it has resistors or capacitors in it and it may it would be a weak link.
SurvivalEngineering 8 months ago