Timed Induction Case Annealing

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Uploaded by on Nov 25, 2009

I've added a timer to my Induction Case Annealing setup. Now the amount of time it stays on is precisely controlled. This is one step closer to automating the process of annealing cartridges using induction heating. Check out http://www.carolinamarksman.com for more updates.

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Uploader Comments (techapoe)

  • My concern - will the Mini Ductor handle hundreds of short cycles? Doesn't the coil get hot after many cycles? Most induction applications require water cooled coils.

  • @10winger

    I've annealed up to 200 cases in one sitting, and yes, that coil gets very hot. A water cooled coil would be far superior for this application. I've switched heaters though so I'm no longer using the mini-ductor. I'm also about to switch away from the work coil in favor of a new piece of technology (still non-contact induction heating, but no work coil)

  • I'm working on it. When it's all said and done you will load the cases into it, set the height, and dial in the time. everything else will be fully automatic.

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All Comments (11)

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  • @2253glen Your suggestion is full of possabilities, maybe, and mights.

    It's a myth,  Quenching hardens metal.

  • @cbrsigsauer Sorry buddy. If you quench any heated metal to near Red you harden it. Simple physics in the metalergy manual.

    Trust me, just lay them in a steel pan or rack'em like this fella. You can handle them in 5min. I had to re-do some from a fella that he quenched. I couln't size them. Hard like steel.

  • You could also rig it to automatically drop the brass into a water bath once it's heated. I know it's not strictly necessary but I like it as an insurance policy.

  • Brilliant! Looks like a much more uniform solution than my torch-based frankenrig

  • @2253glen The advantage of dropping the cases in water is to prevent the lower part of the case from getting too hot. A very bad thing. If the head of the case, the part closest to the primer, becomes too soft, the pressure could become too high in the chamber.

  • @ranterbul From my research on the net, brass does not react like steel when quenched and softening the brass is the whole point of annealing. Reaching about 640 degrees F. changes the molecular structure just enough to allow reloading stress without splitting. Overheating can result in too soft brass, too low a temp. and you don't accomplish any softening. Cooling time, fast in water or slow in air, does not have the same effect as on steel. This according to metalurgist's comments on the web.

  • if your not quenching the brass after you heat it, you are wasting your time and just softening the brass.

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