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Climbing Tools: Equalised Anchors (again)

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Uploaded by on Feb 24, 2007

We have covered this but we will do it again. You have to know how to distribute forces or you will die in the big hills. You get that, you'd better cause your mommy loves you and she wants you to be safe and have fun. I personally couldn't care less.

COMPANY OF CANADIAN MOUNTAIN GUIDES
BANFF CANADA
1 403 760 5731
ccmg@mac.com
http://www.mountainguide.com

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Sports

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Uploader Comments (mikebarter387)

  • Is okay to use only 1 rope connecting biner? It seems like the general consensus is to use 2.

  • @Bonerboy2011 Sorry I don't quite understand the question?

  • how would you do this with three anchors?

  • @oogalyboogaly Keep looking we cover that somewhere

  • i can get ever thing i need to repel in a hard wear store

  • Except common sense!

Top Comments

  • wouldn't it be better to tie two overhands a few inches up on both sides of the loaded biner so that you can have at least some dynamic equalization while minimizing extension should one of the anchors fail?

    the way it's setup here will force one of the anchors to bear the entire load unless the force is coming exactly from where you think it is. i'd call it more of an example of redundant placement than true equalization.

    otherwise good vid, very clear.

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All Comments (38)

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  • Use 2 carabiners where the rope is clipped in and use longer webbing so it forms a more acute angle. But otherwise good vid.

  • @mikebarter387 sorry in the vid he is using 3 biners--2 on the anchor and 1 at the end to connect to the rope. is it okay to use just one or is it standard to use 2 biners w/ opposing gates? i hope this makes more sense.

  • I'm surprised this is the first time this is coming up (from what I've seen)... BUT to be a perfectionist, the final angle formed was right around 90 degrees between the two anchors where is should be quite a bit less to limit the vector forces on the anchors in the event of weighting the anchors...

  • cool thanks

  • Paris Hilton hot sexy girls? Lol. Great video! Keep up the good work.

  • Great Video, Great advice. Hopefully people will actually implement it.

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