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How To, New Ski Tuning & Base Preparation Part 6

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Uploaded by on Oct 4, 2011

Here we continue base beveling, moving on to Diamond Stones

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  • @denelvo Thanks for listening. I did it all on the fly. No script. The one way conversation is where the stuff is! Be good!

  • A ton of knowledge right there.

  • @rsh5932 If you ever come to the USA, Mt. Bachelor Oregon, let me know from my art website. Be good over there!

  • @rsh5932 Yes, use a lot of pressure once you get used to running the stone smoothly. Use lots of fluid! Keep stones wet. DO NOT DETUNE any part! That was from the old days of straight skis! With a 1 degree base bevel the ski should not be hooky. If you detune the ski will not flex as you get on edge. To carve a turn you need sharp all the way. I say that somewhere in the videos. Also some skis are made with a boat shape at tip, and tail. That makes them not to be hooky.

  • @Sagina1999 Thank you. My skis are completely brand new and edges are very sharp. Should I let my diamond stones do their job or should I press a little bit? and should I detune all or just tips and tails?

  • @rsh5932 Sure you can, but to set an edge a file will be best. After that, you can use the diamond stones to re-up the tune. It's mostly deburring on a re-tune. You should do that after several days of skiing anyway. The 200 will cut, but it will take you a lot longer. It kinda' depends how the condition of the ski when you start.

    I hope that helps.

    Once you set the base edge, use stones there only to deburr from time to time. Side edge, you can work over anytime.

  • Nice videos. I've watched all and I have a question. I only have 200, 400, and 1000 grits diamond stones. Can I start beveling with 200 grits diamond stone instead of that metal file?

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