KLR 650 Body Work Removal and Installation

Tools you'll need:
Phillips screwdriver
10 mm socket with medium ratchet
Medium ratchet / socket extender (optional)

Need a Clymer manual? Check out http://www.clymer.com/

The 2 side panels come off first, there are 2 Phillips screws for each panel (4 screws total) and 1 plug and grommet for each cover.
*2008 model: 2 bolts for each side panel, rougly the same places. They looked like 10 mm

If you need to do anything with the air filter (clean or replace), you only need to remove the right side panel.

Once that's off, the seat comes off next. There are 2 bolts (10 mm), 1 on each side of the bike. If you don't have a box on the back, lift the back of the seat up an inch or 2 and slide the seat straight back. If you do have a box, you can probably still get the seat off with the box in place, just lift the back of the seat up more and press the middle of the seat down. The seat will bend a little. This should give ou the clearance you need to get the front seat holder out of its 'housing.'
*2008 model: I think it's the same setup. The dealership wouldn't let me take apart a brand-spankin'-new 2008 KLR on the showroom floor. Dunno why. ;-)

At this point, you have everything off that you need off to modify the rear wheel well (if you need to): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_1lZnUoSl0

To get the tank off, undo the 2 bolts (10 mm) that were covered by the seat (on the back of the tank), the 2 screws (Phillips, 1 attatched to each shroud), and, if they're still intact, pull straight out on the bottom of the shroud to free the plug and grommet (like on the side panels). On the left side of the bike, turn the gas petcock off and detach the gas and vacuum lines. Gas may spill out. Be ready with a rag. Lift the back of the tank (enough so the bolts don't catch), lift a little bit on the front, and slide the tank sraight back. This would be a good time to check if the vacuum in the petcock is working properly: turn the selector slowly from OFF to ON. If gas comes out, you have a bad vacuum thing. If nothing happens, your selector is working properly.
*2008 model: The shroud has 2 bolts that looked like they went into the gas tank. These also looked to be 10 mm. There was also a bolt that you can get to from the front underneath th efairing. I reckon that's 10 mm. There was also another (Philips) screw somewhere, probably holding the faring to the shroud. Look for something shiny and black amidst the shiny what-ever-color-your-bike-is and silver.

If you need to remove the shrouds, there are 2 additional screws at the top and bottom. They should come right off.

At this point, you are have everything off that you need off to do a:
coolant flush: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=anuQhg0Z2ws
or a valve check: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YD462lZsgMQ

To get the skid plate off, there are 3 bolts, all 10 mm. One is centered on the front right behind the [front] wheel, the other 2 are near the back edge of the plate.
*2008 model: the 2 reaer bolts are in the same place, but there are 2 front bolts instead of 1.

To reassemble the bike, put the gas tank on first. Make sure the rubber hockey puck type things are in place on each side of the frame. Slide the tank forward. The large holes (on the flange on the back of the tank, and on the cross plate o the frame) should line up prefectly. Route the breather hose throug the hole, behind the rear shock, and through the shock cutout on the swingarm. There should be a bracket where other hoses are running. Follow those hoses.If you removed the shroud, put those back on. Use Loctite on all 6 screw (2 going to the tank, 4 going to the coolat tank bracket or radiator, depending on which side you're on.

Next put the seat on. If you have a box, you'll need to bend the seat like you did to get it off. If you don't have a box, just slide the seat forward into place. To make sure it'sseated properly, lift on the front (but not too hard), the seat should stay put. Replcae the bolt on each side of the seat (Loctite it...).

On the side covers, there is a lip that runs along the top and back. The top lips should go under the edge of the seat, and the back lip shouild go behind the read fender. If the screws won't go in, check to make sure that the lip is behind the fender. Loctite (see a pattern here?) the screws and replace.
Voila!


For a wealth of KLR 650 information, please visit KLR650.NET - Your Kawasaki KLR650 Resource!
If you decide to join, please use my referral link: http://www.klr650.net/forums/index.php?referrerid=17746

Category:

Autos & Vehicles

Tags:

• Kawasaki
• KLR
• 650
• KLR650
• Motorcycle
• Dirtbike
• Dirt
• Bike
• Gas
• Ta

[N8Ryder]

Great video. I need to take my seat off to put a seat cushion on. Is the battery right under the seat too?

[ghotioutofh2o]

Yes, you can see the the battery from the top with the seat off. You may need to move some wires out of the way.

[tindolph408]

Thank you. I've only put gas in my KLR and road it. Now, the battery is dead. Can I charge it in the bike? Mike.

[ghotioutofh2o]

Stock: not without taking the side cover / seat off.

If you add some wiring, yes, you can.

[pyrodog783]

what kind of oil do you use? just curious

[ghotioutofh2o]

Summer: Rotella T 15W-40

Sub 0 F: Valvolene Max-Life 5W-30. Do NOT use this unless your ride when it's really f*cking cold out.

[thaylinsgate]

Great Video, Can you let me know more information about the rear seat box please. I am going to be adding 20mm Ammo Boxes to the sides, and this looks to be exactly what I'm looking for on the rear. Does it fit a full face helmet?

Thanks

[quocducnguyen]

Thanks for doing the video. I really appreciate it. Have a great day!

[ghotioutofh2o]

Made by Commercial Sewing, Inc. in Torrington, CT 05790 for Kawasaki Corp., USA.