solar-fed MAG AMP GEN III

In-V Energy Production: Mag Amp Gen 3
The purpose of this video is to show a preliminary STANDARD UNIT, which, by small alterations in input voltage, producing different axle rpm's, will produce various output voltages feeding wheel-hub magnetic drives, from 24v - 72v. This means that by varying the number of STANDARD UNITS one can provide drive power to small or larger vehicles.
Note that this differs, not only from FUEL-MOTORS, but from Magnetic Drives with only battery-sourcing. Neither of these have ONE STANDARD UNIT which can accomodate vehicles large or small, slower or faster.
Of additional note; while this five-ring 3-phase unit is loosly rated at 2.5amps (at 50v), & the next six-ring unit will be rated at 3 amps, MACHINE-SHOP production editions can easily DOUBLE these ratings, by closing the gap between magnets & coils, as well as increasing the number of coil-turns. Of further note, units like these should NEVER be exposed to DIRECT LOADS - if they are, the resulting impedance will back up into the coils, slowing rpm's, and increasing strain on the small DC motor. On a vehicle, all this can be regulated by only one gauge: The power-voltage gauge. Unlike in "Electric" vehicles, where this gauge ONLY GOES DOWN after a "charge-up". In vehicles using this Generator-Amplifyer, the gauge will go UP when the solar-fed unit is turned on, and DOWN when the Magnetic-Drive units are accelerating or going up hills or carrying heavy loads. Any gauge loss can be restored quickly by merely stopping with these units left on. Result? A truly practical stand-alone Fuel-Less Transport System.
Once you are PRODUCING energy as you go down the road, you will feel a lot less HELPLESS in changing things!
For the record, here is how to build a practical Fuel-Less Transport.
1) Build a body like MIT's "Metro" ("stackable").
2) Mount 2 or four wheel-hub 3-d Magnetic Drives like Nisson's "Pivo2".
3) Mount about 1/4 size of their Li-polymer bat-set under frame.
4) Mount 2-6 Mag Amp Gen units like the one in video.
5) Mount 2-6 Solar panels on roof, each about 8"X 2' (smaller if you have nano), each feeding one Gen.
6) Sprinkle in a few hefty capacitors on line to Gen's, and end-line to controllers to store energy for night & rainy days.
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I will build all this stuff later, if I have time. Meanwhile, enjoy being the first Earth Generation of on-road energy PRODUCERS, instead of dumbed-down slave energy CONSUMERS!!!

Category:

Science & Technology

Tags:

• solar
• vehicle
• fuel-less
• transport

[PhotonDrive]

Good Questions: Our earlier SOLAR VEES maxed at about 3 amps w/wind problems, $3000 cost - so you see this $100unit advantages. Also Batteries alone can cost $12,000 or more; but $1000 with these units; plus, they wear out-these units don't! So you see all the important advantages! Little motor work's fine - other vids test one is too big, needs more current. This is 5-ring; one just finished? 6-ring: good standard size.

[lucasfehr]

If this gives only 3 amps, won't you need 3 or four to run a small chinese scooter hub drive?

And wouldn't making them longer with more rings be more efficient? Would the little motor you have turn it?

Just a suggestion....

[PhotonDrive]

Yes Luc, this has already been done. Four men pumping with 4 ordinary Auto Gen. went up to 60mph. They were on MSN feature a couple months ago. Of course with 5 or 6 of this vids. units, a 90lb girl could haul several tons to market at 50mph or so. Still, building a petal multi-unit isn't that simple - due to the mechanics. It is a pity the Chinese don't have these, it would solve all their interior development problems.

[lucasfehr]

Why don't you just pedal the magnets on the axle, you know? Wouldn't that be simplest?

[PhotonDrive]

Lescull: You may be right, but Air turbine while steadier than weather, have there own stability problems: maybe two combined to even out Voltage? Mort 1-phase at 3600 gives 120v; 3-phase at 1200 120v- 600;60v. So I want about 6 or 700 (volts can be 20 or more over Bats depending on amp/prop. A good part of this test was finding it didn't tear itself apart at 1200rpm's! Keeping current flowing is the object - no heat with no back-up, but Bat begins resist when near full.

[Morthal3]

So what is the ideal RPM? - and set the number of fins accordingly. When you get it outside, use all elements and add a solar panel to the circuit. No-grid assumption has you moving it outside.

[lescull]

Why not get the initial spin from a squirrel cage horizontal wind turbine? (ie: zero current initial input, kinetic contribution from external factors only - the assumption should be no-grid, 'cause it's going down - ask New Hampshire!) If you're having stability issues, let initial wind get it started, then the air preasure resistance - once it is spinning - will keep the RPMs steady.