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System Test 22

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Uploaded by on Nov 10, 2007

Ok, this will be perhaps one of the best vids I of my system I have ever uploaded onto YouTube.

I managed to fix the pull so it would work the way I wanted it to, and as you'll see, the outcome was quite successful.

Anywho, my 4001 (along w/ any 4001 and 4002 for that matter) has the option of hooking up a coded device to zone 1. And this vid is of me testing that function out.

Now. As you know, this pull will only do 4 rounds w/ each full pull. The System Trouble and Zone 1 trouble LEDs are lit in this vid, as I had trouble (no pun intended!) trying to get the trouble condition to clear at the time, but I have since gotten rid of the trouble condition. Anyway, as you can see, this vid came out VERY well.

At 1:43, you see me taking a "screw driver", capeable of inserting any bit heads into it, and inserting it into the pull. Right where the "I" in "FIRE" is, there's a small hole. That hole is a testing hole. As you can see in the vid (or not), once you insert the proper allen wrench size, a twist to the right will test the station. And as you see a 1:55, a twist to the left allows for silent testing, to check the mechanics of the pull.

And then at 2:28, I test the non-coded pull station, and as you can see, I now have the panel programmed to do code-3.

In order to make the alarm sound the way it did, I had to set the MIZ for continuous.

Now, as for how the 4001 functions when a coded device is hooked up to it (and coded option is selected), the pull (or whatever coded device) will send the 4001 into alarm, but instead of doing whatever the panel is programmed to do for coding, it will only do the code the device hooked up to it does, and it will only sound when the code is being transmitted. You are allowed to acknowledge the 4001 at any time, but the system will not stop sounding as long as the code is still being transmitted, which also means that resetting it also won't work as it'll just go back into alarm. Now, if the pull or whatever has stopped sending code, the alarm won't sound anymore, but the panel will remain unacknowledged until someone acknowledges it. And then, you reset the system. ONLY zone 1 has the option for coded inputs to be hooked up to it, which is why when I pull the non-coded pull station, which I had to rewire to zone 3, it does the panel programmed code, which is code-3.

With all that said, enjoy the vid!

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Howto & Style

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Uploader Comments (weatherdan882002)

  • Can a person pull the first fire alarm more than once as I saw you do something with a screwdriver what did that do

  • One complete pull on the coded station will only sound 4 rounds of code. The screwdriver is for testing purposes. A twist to the left makes the contacts come into contact w/ eachother, thus sounding the alarm. This tests to make sure the alarm will still work. If you twist it to the right and pull the pull station, the pull will operate, but no alarm will sound. This allows for testing of the pull station itself while not setting off an alarm.

  • Is that a clock ticking in the background?

  • when the pull isn't operating, yes, there's a clock behind where I put the camera.

  • Thats A BIG PULL STATION!

  • it's about 5"X7"

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All Comments (22)

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  • Since thats a coded pull station. Does it work with a panel? And did they have fire alarm panels in the days of the coded pull stations?

  • Yu could connect that coded pull to either a minitored input (that will sound the alarms) or the non latching class change

  • Awesome Video!

  • awesome--the clearest system test ever

  • The pull station, when pulled, a clockwork engages

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