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Chris Sharma, World's First 5.15

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Published on May 11, 2012

In July, 2001, Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Realization (AKA Biographie), the world's first confirmed 5.15 (9a+), in Ceuse, France. This short film shows the process he went through trying the route for many weeks over several trips, and the actual footage of the historic first ascent. Excerpted from the full-length film Dosage Volume 1, available at bigUPproductions.com.

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Top Comments

  • cowplod

    Who belays him for 7 weeks??

    · 10

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  • Dan Lewis

    Capleton - Jah Jah City -- that's the boss one

    

    · 3

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    in reply to Cristian Andres Ramirez (Show the comment)

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  • sammyboi55

    Imagine if this guy drank a gallon a day of distilled water? Holy shit he'd be spiderman hahaha

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  • Shamyl Ducasse

    Someone knows what is the name of the song at 5:30?

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  • PabloFerroDesign

    Bah I do 9d+ to get out of my bed and 5.15d to reach the cereal.

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  • Filip Fransson

    Thank you very muth. :)

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    in reply to djona12 (Show the comment)
  • jebachmajke

    I'd belay him for 7 weeks !

    · 2

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    in reply to cowplod (Show the comment)
  • djona12

    Horace Andy - Do You Love My Music ;)

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    in reply to Filip Fransson (Show the comment)
  • Filip Fransson

    Whats the song at 14.11?

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  • IC3M4NX

    They're both good at what they do. Thing is, they have drastically different style, i.e. Chris is a single pitch master, slaying the "hardest" routes in existence, whereas Honnald is free soloing epic big wall routes. While technically easier, the climbing is a lot more exposed, more mentally fatiguing (arguably) and you risk death. Both are badass in their own right. In terms of doing hard moves, Chris is much stronger.

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    in reply to loganmott2015 (Show the comment)
  • IC3M4NX

    Camera guy is roped in at the top of the route. Sometimes they will set up a portaledge or ladder so get the "far out" view. Typically he is dangling from over a roof so he clears more space from the wall. Also, the camera is a little bit deceiving but that route is EXTREMELY overhanging, which means the camera man higher up is war further out from Chris than the camera shows. I mean, just look at the quick draws dangling from gravity.

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    in reply to rgorjon9 (Show the comment)
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