How to mat a print in an archival, conservation-safe manner

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Uploaded by on Mar 23, 2010

The best thing to do with a loose print is to mat it so that it can be framed. But where to begin? This video shows step by step how to mat a print using the hinge method, which is one of the best possible ways to ensure conservator-friendly archivability.

This method is great for flat prints. If your print is curled or wrinkled you will need to mount it to a backing board. Check out my other video to see how that is done.

~Josh

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My website: http://www.joshuacripps.com

My blog: http://www.joshuacripps.com/blog

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Santa-Cruz-CA/Joshua-Cripps-Photography/1843103...

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Uploader Comments (JoshuaCrippsPhoto)

  • Great video!! But how do you cut the matte to begin with? Where do you buy the matte cardboard? How did you get the square hole in the middle? Please do a video on where you purchase matting cardboard, the foam, etc., and how you cut it all to look like a picture frame. Thanks!

  • @lambertjohn1: You can buy a mat cutter and mats at a good art supply store. The mat cutter should come with instructions on exactly how to cut the mat to the size you want.

    Even easier: buy pre-cut mats. I use a company called Clear Bags who has a great selection of pre-cut mats to fit standard size photos and frames. Hope that helps!

  • Thank you for a very illuminating presentation. I have one question though: what type of pen do you use for writing on the back of the print and the lower right corner of the mat?

  • @EmsVision1 Any kind of acid free pen should be fine. I use an acid free fine tip pen for the back of the print, and a paint-pen to sign the actual print

  • Very informative! I have a few questions which is what led me to find this video. I am trying to frame an autographed poster (27"x39") in an archival manner and the biggest frame i can find locally is 27"x40". I assume it must be matted to keep the autographs off the glass. If i did a 1" mat all the way around (Unfortunelty covering some poster) would the middle sag into the glass eventually since the poster is so big? Is 1" big enough? Is the exact 27" W frame okay? This is tough and costly.

  • @Kimbo83: Good question! I can't say if the exact 27" width is ok. You'll have to measure the poster and measure the frame precisely to make sure it will fit.

    As for the mat, the poster might sag eventually into the glass. The best solution I can think of is to take the poster into your local frame shop and have them use their dry mount press to mount the poster to a piece of foam board. That will prevent it from sagging, and the dry mount is still archival. Good luck!

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  • @jgcoutdoors, Glad you found this vid helpful. The tape is called Filmoplast P90. I get it from a frame shop. Good luck!

  • First, I want to thank you for posting such a helpful video.

    I couldn't find any information in the list of previous comments about the type of tape that you used in this presentation. I attempted to mount/mat some prints using this method and everything worked well with one major exception: the gummed, water-activated tape that I attempted to use causes the print to warp and buckle at the point where the hinge is attached.

    What type of archival tape do you use for making hinges?

  • Very helpful. Thank you.

  • @JSinon1: A few things you can try to reduce wrinkling:

    1) Hang the print somewhere where it's not subject to temperature and humidity fluctuations. These are the main causes of wrinkling

    2) Use a matte or lustre finish instead of metallic or glossy. This will help make wrinkling less noticeable.

    3) If all else fails, dry mount the print to the backing board. This will remove all wrinkles and is still (in theory) a reversible process if you need to remove the print.

    Good luck!

  • I have been mounting my photos almost the exact same way, but still have a problem with the print wrinkling to some degree. This is particularly noticeable with prints on metallic paper. Any tips for preventing, or at least greatly reducing the wrinkling?

    Thanks

  • Informative video, thanks.

    Just one question ... you keep going on about the fact that you do not want to damage the print, hence the archival tape and t-hinge mounting etc., but the one thing that struck me the most was your constant touching of the print with your fingers. Surely that will damage the print just as much, with the oils on your skin. Personally, I would use some gloves to handle the print. Maybe over the top but at least the skin oils would not damage the print.

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