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After this, you line up with the cueball putting the tip all the way to the cueball to about 1 cenimeter before the impact, and simply follow thru into the felt. Most people are scared to do this because the cueball can hop, but in this case the impact is precise as the tip hits the cueball before the felt, as you fixed that in the warm up exercise i mentioned, for true draw, simply drive the stick into the felt.
The secret of the draw shot is simple. First put your stick on the side of the cue ball and pretend a drawshot, follow thru, and hold the stick there, see where it contacts the felt and freeze. Now simply push your back arm down, and your tip will come up, continue your follow thru and you can go almost level about another 6 inches in most cases than previously thought.
It seems that keeping the cue really level sometimes causes the cue ball to inadvertently "hop", somewhat like a jump shot. I guess a slight elevation helps with this, without sacrificing too much on the draw. What do you think?
Everthing seems on the up and up! However, FargoBilliard failed to mention (slide)and how well one judges the slide will effectively promote the amount of draw being applied.
Another point he is wrong about is the 'miscue limit'. This limit is not circular, and has many other factors associated with it, mainly angle of cue against the cue ball at contact, speed of the cue etc etc. I would argue that such a limit does not exist, but the hypothetical use of it to make a point about chalking is fine as a simple model.
Massey raises his elbow on the backstroke and lowers it on the forward stroke on a power draw. This allows him to hit the ball harder. Where Massey differs from nearly all other humans including most pros is he can hit the ball at warp speed WITHOUT sacrificing much on the close-to-miscue contact point.
I think this guy is just plain wrong on some points. The wrist action is key to a good draw stroke. Wrist action increases cue speed. Imagine trying to throw a ball, swing a bat or drive a golf ball with your wrist locked. Generating enough cue speed with your arm only would create a wild stroke. Another point is that a loose wrist keeps the cue level throughout the stroke. If you want to draw well, a loose, snappy action, with a good follow through will help.
At 7:30 You don't mention that only the uppermost section of the tip makes contact on a draw stroke. If I aim the centerline of the tip at a given spot (and hit that spot) the chalk mark will appear about 7mm higher than where I was aiming.
I agree the chalk mark will be 5 mm or so above where the center of the cue is aiming. But I think people realize this. That is, if I tell a player to line up to contact the edge of a stripe, I think most will line up not the center of the tip but rather the top portion of the tip for the edge of the stripe.
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It seems that keeping the cue really level sometimes causes the cue ball to inadvertently "hop", somewhat like a jump shot. I guess a slight elevation helps with this, without sacrificing too much on the draw. What do you think?