How to Make Tile Flush with Hardwood Floor

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Uploaded by on Nov 2, 2010

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Uploader Comments (michaelbronco)

  • Yes sir, I have found the same thing unless it's a small area. Have you ever tried using a small strip of wood as the filler? The tile has to be really squared up nice, of course, but a small strip of wood run perpendicular works good in some applications.

  • you're just substituting backerboard for 3/4 board right? 

  • @1234roadking1 Yes, typically you'll have a 3/4" sub-floor along with another 3/4" hardwood or a 1/2" plywood covered with linoleum on top. By removing the top layer, you'll end up with just the bottom 3/4" sub-floor. Clean this REAL good and glue and screw your backer-board here. Use thin set for the glue and make sure that the backer doesn't move. That's the key.

  • did the grout crack at that transition yet?

  • @Joshawanao Nope...been three years. Foyer, kitchen and both baths. Nice and flush with no cracks. An old-timer showed me how to do it this way and his lasted as long as the tile itself.

  • So I suggested taking out the subfloor to my contracter who said he needed a hard surface like that to put the backerboard onto. so he needed the subfloor there for that. You talk about not using the sub, and laying the backerboard then onto the surface using some concrete and screwing it on stable, that means you don't need the subfloor. can you explain the concrete step better (so I can do that tomorrow). glad it also does not make sense to someone why you can't have the tile and wood flush.

  • @jusaldor Okay, so you'll only need 1 layer of 3/4 sub-floor to work with. You don't need 2. When you take up the top layer they're should be 1 layer of 3/4 sub-floor left. That's all you need. Just put the backer-board on top of that. But use the good stuff. And be sure to lay the backer on a coat of adhesive.

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  • Excellent video as I do this myself however you should never grout between hardwood and tile as they both expand and contract with temperature/moisture changes. I cant tell you how many houses I have been in to see this joint all cracked because someone was too lazy to suggest the proper materials. Just take your time and order or source a colored caulk that matched the grout. All grout suppliers make it. I myself like to put a piece of nickle Schluter around the tile separating from the wood.

  • @michaelbronco Cool! that can normally be a problem area. grout = crack, caulk = dirt, transition strip = bump. Good job!

  • @michaelbronco Thanks. I think he believes that when the existing plywood comes up there will only be 1 layer. I'm hoping he'll actually find 1.5 inches to work with, and can lay down the 3/4 plywood, 1/2 inch backer and the 1/4 inch tile for a perfectly flush set up. My only concern may be that my home's hardwood is laid right onto the main floor structure with no plywood. likely? So bathroom may be 1 layer. if so, I'm going to lay hardwood in the b room despite warnings...

  • @jusaldor Hi, just want to make sure we're on same page. You won't need 2 layers of plywood. Only 1. The 1/2 inch backer-board will go directly on top of the 1 layer of plywood. Just make sure that the 3/4 is screwed in good and the backer-board has a coat of adhesive underneath. I've had mine like that for three years. No issues at all.

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