Gibson (95.1% AFUE) Gas Furnace

Same Gibson name, even better furnaces.

The 92's are a dream to stock parts for.
But this time, we may just get ourselves some
warranty parts when needed. For 10 FULL YEARS!

Category:

Science & Technology

Tags:

• Gibson
• Gas Furnace
• Appliance
• High Efficiency

[TheQuickRick]

Patrick,

I have an old 80% in that crawl space not and according to Nordyne "Attached are the Specifications and Features of the 97%+ furnace and installation instructions. It is approved for use in attic or crawl space (page 16 of inst. instr,). As long as the installation meets the installation requirements, all should be fine".

Just wondered if you'd seen one in an unconditioned space? It seems a shame to replace an 80% and not upgrade yet I hate to have troubles.

QR

[MagicPatrick1]

@TheQuickRick The trouble comes when it breaks down. You could always add a tap collar and feed that area, or heat tape the drain ect. But if it goes down, especially horizontaly, water trapped inside the furnace might freeze. Likely not? But what if...

There's ALWAYS moisture in the plastic venter motor housing too. So much to consider...

[TheQuickRick]

Patrick,

Have you mounted one of these in an unconditioned attic or crawl space? I ask because I want to do one of these like my other 95.1 % Gibson but it is inside. I worry about water trapped inside and the risk of freezing temps.

Nordyne says it is okay but I wondered if you'd ever seen one installed in the cold?

Thanks,

QR

[MagicPatrick1]

@TheQuickRick I wouldn't, but an 82% should be fine.

[MagicPatrick1]

@TheQuickRick =)

[TheQuickRick]

@MagicPatrick1

Yes, the temperature difference was a measured 47 degrees and I set the dip switches according to the chart. I believe that I followed the start-up/ installation instructions to a T. At one point I was going to replace the older basement casement windows because they are less than air tight, but with a gas dryer, furnace and water heater, prudence tells me to leave them be.

[MagicPatrick1]

@TheQuickRick The light just comes on (green) when it fires. On the contol board, look close and you'll see a small dip switch that says short or long. Switch it over to short. This will cycle the unit on low fire for just 12 minutes!

In the book is another dip switch chart for the blower. Be sure these are set accordingly or the unit will cycle on limit. Your outlet (supply) temp should be NO MORE than 60 degrees above the return/inlet temp! Crucial!!!

[TheQuickRick]

I finally vented my furnace going with your intake method, ran through the entire start-up sequence and all seems well. I clocked an input of 58, 800 BTUs on the meter after doing the math. Is the only way to tell low fire versus high fire beyond the sound? (my thermostat will also give status) I am curious if the lights give any clue......I'm thinking they only give flame lit status.

Thanks again...this was a big help!

[TheQuickRick]

Patrick,

I did as you'd suggested by using utility room air and making it a "1 pipe system" . I did run my pipe up into the now unused chimney where the old furnace used to vent, it seems to work just great. It has a huge cap on the top and I insulated the open space around the 2 inch PVC piping.

I'm no expert yet on when it goes to low fire or why, but I can hear it and the thermostat status tells you as well. I have confirmed all of the temperature rises, gas pressures etc.

Thanks

[TheQuickRick]

Patrick,

I did as you'd suggested by using utility room air and making it a "1 pipe system" . I did run my pipe up into the now unused chimney where the old furnace used to vent, it seems to work just great. It has a huge cap on the top and I insulated the open space around the 2 inch PVC piping.

I'm no expert yet on when it goes to low fire or why, but I can hear it and the thermostat status tells you as well. I have confirmed all of the temperature rises, gas pressures etc.

Thanks!