Paralleling a Table Saw Fence
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@wwgoaeditor - Excellent points ! ! !
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macduff has been deviant in designing a stationary fence on a sliding platform which is always dead parallel to the blade, no toe-in or toe-out, if a blade is not parallel to the fence either the front or the back of the blade is doing most of the work will burn or leave X marks and spit sawdust in your face
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I joint and plane an ~4" wide board to fit snugly on edge in the miter slot, then clamp the fence body to the board and adjust the fence clamping head.
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i would like to install nylon or whatever material is normally used as rip fence face for both sides like i see there one that rip fence. do they sell them or do i make them myself?
odmcarp 1 year ago
@odmcarp A variety of materials are used to face the fence on table saws. Some companies use mdf covered with plastic laminate. U could accomplish this by applying laminate to mdf & fixing it to your table saw fence. Both materials are available at home centers. Others use high molecular weight plastic, aka UHMW. Its available from places like Peachtree. No need to cover or coat it, its already very slippery stuff. Just cut it to size and fix it to your fence
wwgoaeditor 1 year ago
Great video again George. Why might my owners manual call for the fence to be slightly off parallel? It states that it should fall off 1/32" over it's entire length. I assumed it had something to do with preventing kickback. Cheers!
Poopsmif06 2 years ago
Some woodworkers advocate setting the outfeed side of the fence slightly "open," out of parallel by 1/32" or so. You're right about kick back. Leaving it open on the outfeed side is to avoid binding. Make every effort in making the fence and blade parallel first. If that doesn't work, use the idea of being open on the outfeed side. Part of the problem with not being parallel is that if you need to use the fence on the left side of the blade, you'll need to rework the fence again.
-WWGOA
wwgoaeditor 2 years ago