How to Repair Your Plasma TV With Blinking LED
Uploader Comments (gavincurtis)
All Comments (321)
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My capacitors look alright they don't have a inflated top but yet I have tge same problem please help!
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lol for a second the title had me thinking we were gonna see how to repair a TV by USING a blinking LED ;p, but yeah, great vid, pretty sad how much people get ripped off for repairs like this when TV manufacturers DESIGN them to fail x.x
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Hi, i have taken the back of my 50 inch plasma and can see the ones that have blown, how do you take them out, do you just pull them out. I've tried pulling one out but it seems to be stuck fast. I don't want to break it off and then have to replace the whole mother board as i've told my husband i can fix it. Also do i need to unscrew the mother board and detach all the electrical wiring plugs?
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@MrMorbo420 but like i said replacing a cap with the same capacitance rating is kind of just common sense.
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@MrMorbo420 Ok ok ok gezzus calm down lol. I was only saying that you dont need to have a EE degree, dont need to write me a book :P I do agree tho that if thay dont know that you need to replace a cap with the same uF rateing thay shouldent be doing it in the first place.
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@MAXKC1 i just worked on the model you speak of two weeks ago. what do the diagnostic LED codes on it say? user manual has led codes in troubleshooting section.
your lamp be be at EOL (end of life).
just google for the user manual, service manual is easy to find for this also.
have fun, taking this TV apart is HORRIBLE!
guessing from your username, you in KC? we service TVs in Boonville.
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@QsoftStudios tjanice63's statement "Important is that the voltage and uF ratings are same or higher than original." is dangerously misinformed. you may use a higher Voltage rating all you want, BUT uF must be the same unless there is a TSB declaring a change is necessary. see "flywheel circuit".
yes, you dont need to be an EE to work on electronics. but this is DANGEROUS MISINFORMATION...
im just trying to keep people from being killed. so contradict me for no good reason.
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@QsoftStudios so then you are saying someone that refers to uF a uW must be qualified to re-engineer the circuit with any "uW" rating cap they find? it's fine that your ego must search for and point out a flaw in any comment i make. but, you are telling people that dont know the difference between uF, uH, or Ohm, etc. to make any substitution they wish and risk fire, electrocution or just plain old property damage.
im not sure what you were trying to accomplish but it was errant
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@MrMorbo420 You don't need to have an EE degree to do EE...most of the safety rules with EE are just common sense.
Plasma TV's suck. They way overheat and have crammed in electronic panels for slim form. Electrolytic caps suck. There are hundreds of them in these tv's.
Ibringthetruth1 2 months ago
@Ibringthetruth1 Yeah. You can find a 40 year old oven temperature operating tube amplifier with perfect electrolytic caps. But a 2 year old 21st century solid state flat screen TV has busted caps.
Irony... can't escape it.
gavincurtis 2 months ago 2
Hi i have a Samsung 42"plasma TV....PPM42H3 this model is discontinued
the power on light is blinking for about 10 seconds..then the screen comes on with vertical and horizontal lines then the TV dies..unplug and plug in same thing..i opened the TV ..all capacitors are good..what do i do next..or should i just toss it!!
DunnDem 2 months ago
@DunnDem How many blinks? With the back off the TV, heat the power supply board up with a hair dryer..... does the TV turn on then? Does it at least try to?
gavincurtis 2 months ago
Ok I watched this video and I replaced the capacitor but my hubby got a 1000w 35v instead of 1200w 10v.. When I did replace it and turned it on the flickering began again but before I replaced it the flickering stopped all together. What do you think could be the problem should I find a 1200w 10v or throw it out all together?
tjanice63 4 months ago
@tjanice63 Did the TV work better with the 1000uF 35V part than before? Is the part polarity correct? It is like a battery... a negative and a positive wire. If put in backwards, it will partially work before failing again.
Find a 1200uF or greater (10V or more). A 2200uF will be fine. Important is that the voltage and uF ratings are same or higher than original. If you go less, could be marginal and cause problems. It must be installed with + and - in proper order.
gavincurtis 2 months ago