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El Camino Primitivo, Palas de Rey - Melide - Ribadiso, 26 marzo 2010.wmv

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Uploaded by on Apr 3, 2010

It was still pouring down in the morning so, having left the albergue at 8 and after a coffee in the bar across the road, we set off towards Melide, taking the main road as the Camino takes you off the road to wade through quagmires just to bring you back onto it again. We made good speed 16 kms this way in the wind and rain, gentle ascents and descents with yellow mimosa trees and eucalyptus (and traffic). We arrived at Melide by 11 a.m., entering the old part over a roman bridge. It was very lovely despite the wind and rain. We took refuge in an old bar near a chapel where the owner gave us a large chunk of spanish omelette free, to accompany our soft drinks. Happy to eat and listen to the Celtic music and have a rest to see if the rain eased. It didn´t! Carried on into the town centre and stocked up as we knew there wouldn´t be shops at Ribadiso. Met German friends we´d made at the albergue last night: Sara (left in pic) and Manuela (right) - happy and enthusiastic! We left Melide and walked another 11 kms to Ribadiso. Walked country tracks, boggy and drenched deciduous woods, saw a stork´s nest (I think), crossed streams with stepping stones and came across a little stall selling home-made jams. This was nice. There were wild raspberry bushes growing in the woods, so the jam was wild raspberry, also apple and another of chestnuts. Little cakes and biscuits were set out for sale and a help-yourself flask of coffee with little plastic cups. And no-one to be seen! Very cheap prices written on each and a box to pay. Marvellous.
There was no let up with the rain and the wind finally did for our shared umbrella, a collapsable one, a present from my friend Anne Carter, that had put up with the elements up till now. R.I.P umbrella.
It seemed an awfully long way to Ribadiso. It poured and blew so hard even the fountains we passed had water blowing every which way. However, the skies began to clear as we neared the albergue. The wind blew through fields of long grass.. so prettily. We went up and down hills, past rivers and streams until we finally descended to the river Iso, crossed the Roman bridge and there was the albergue. A fine set of buildings in a perfect situation. Friendly receptionist. Stone and wood buildings with outhouses for washing areas, showers etc (bit chill with the raised roof). No cooking utensils in the kitchen but good working cookers, so in the evening we heated up a tin of hot "fabada", (beans and meat), with good bread, just the thing after the day. The dorm was on split levels (shown) and I got a bunk bed by the endearing stone window-seat where I sat and wrote in my little notebook, watching the river flow under the old bridge. It hailed dramatically just after we arrived.
This place must be idyllic in Summer as you can stroll along the river banks under the trees and the large green fields. It´s really big.
Lots of birdsong when the skies cleared late afternoon and a beautiful moon shining at night.. loved it.

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