One Hit White - No Flash

This image was printed on 110/80 white mesh at 12Ncm2. As you can see the opacity was great and only one stroke was needed.

Ultrasol Inks can be purchased at the Screenprint Store at http://screenprintstore.com

Category:

Howto & Style

Tags:

• One Hit White on Black
• No Flash
• Bill Hood
• Screenprint Store
• silk screen
• screenprinting

[NgonHua]

Nice Job! What is the mesh on that screen? Every time I do a job with a fabric that is 100% cotton and thick and heavy, the detail of the print doesn't look so pleasing. Like sometimes I get jagged edges. Maybe I will try that forward push that you guys are doing here.

[billhoodconsulting]

@NgonHua - There is a bit more to it than just knowing the mesh, which I gave as 110/80 at 12Ncm2. Please see the other video entitled "Screenprinting - Secret to White on Black" in which I give a lengthy discourse on printing with One Hit White™

[SunshineScreenPrints]

Awww! White ink! 

[billhoodconsulting]

@inkstains1 - While you cannot expect to get great results from a stretch and glue frame, if you have the right ink it will work many times. I personally like for it to work every time, so I only use Newman Roller Frames, which are on sale at the Screenprint Store this week.

[billhoodconsulting]

@inkstains1 - If you'd like you can surf over to SolutionsJournal and hit the forum link on the front page. Register for free and I will be happy to help you achieve your goals with more detail. They don't allow enough room here on YouTube to be specific.

[inkstains1]

@inkstains1 To add to that, we have a few of your books that we pass around, and we all have tried to alter this, but we all have ended up making a mess and want to try get it right. We can make a decent stencil for process and index, but need to tweek it to get a brilliant white. We are in the process of ditching the stretch and glue screens, but i can see that those do not stop you from getting great results, and you can make a nice white even without expensive changes to the process.

[inkstains1]

@billhoodconsulting Yeah I noticed i flipped that around, the last coat is always on the squeegee side. We have tried the dry and coat again, but never had any luck so we only coat them once. Because of this we have to flash whites.

[billhoodconsulting]

@inkstains1 - Hopefully you are not coating screens as you described. Your stencil will end up on the wrong side and you will be plagued with poor results. The stencil should always be on the bottom or substrate side of the screen. Your method would would push all of the emulsion to the squeegee side. Even with the 2 face coats, you would have created a poor stencil.

[billhoodconsulting]

@inkstains1 - I did not coat the screen myself. We just grabbed a screen that was already in production to show how easily this can be accomplished with the right ink. It is a diazo-photopolymer emulsion.

[billhoodconsulting]

@inkstains1 - You are not close! The coating technique is not a matter of how many coats on each side, rather a prescribed buildup using a thickness gauge to pre-determine the end result.