BD Climber Tommy Caldwell ATC Guide Pro Tip
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Uploaded by BlackDiamondVideo on Mar 10, 2010
Tommy walks through how he uses the ATC Guide while belaying Kevin Jorgeson on Mescalito.
- 14 likes, 13 dislikes
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Top Comments
All Comments (18)
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Wow, to all the haters, its called "autoblock." It's made multi-pitch climbing waaaay easier for top belaying. I know that they teach you that stuff in the gym, but come on, thats not real climbing.
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@awquity man you have a problem. Get a life and relax.
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@awquity RTFM! There you'll find the following: »Never take your braking hand off either rope under andy circumstances«!
Carelessness is the biggest risk for the rope team.
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This is a simple video endorsement for the guide device, not sure where the tip is. Thanks BD for sharing Tommy's brilliant insights on how he uses his guide device.
Thats 1:25 min. I won't get back. :)
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@awquity holy crap buddy, chill out. The point the guy made, was pretty valid. Whats with the swearing? You sound like a brat. Get over it, kid.
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Sorry Dj, the previous post was meant for awquity.
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to Dj: you can get medication for that !
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The ATC guide is made to completely lock the rope when it pulls down. Once there some weight on it, the rope is gonna stop automatically. There's no way it can slide. He takes his hands off EXACTLY to show that it works automatically in THAT direction. I think it is not due to carelessness or over-confidence.
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@DjMurdrak You're a fucking retard... unless the anchor pulls, the rope snaps, the carabiner breaks (all which would require Kevin to take a factor 2+ fall on TR...) I think he's okay. The ATC guide is made to be hands free... hands free... fucking idiot. Even a "novice" climber using the guide correctly can let go of the fucking rope.
Next time you want to judge what Tommy "Mother Fucking" Caldwell is doing, go re-evaluate your worthless life.
Fucking gumby.
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isnt it better to use it above your shoulder?
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I know how a bunch of situations can dictate how attentive a belayer is; maybe the pitch is easy and the second is not going to fall; maybe its a hard nailing aid lead that takes 8 hours... but I think that this being a video shown by the manufacturer as a "Pro Tip" clearly focused at novice climbers, they should not show Tommy letting go of the rope completely while belaying. Even if it was a grigri or a cinch.
DjMurdrak 1 year ago 13
menudo follon kolega ke lio
soldiertewi 1 year ago 2