I use 80 pound highgloss paper with very good results. For double sided boards I put the schematics face to face under a bright light to line up the traces, then I will put three staples on the one end of the paper so they dont move. I then insert the double sided board in between the two pages and set my iron to medium NOT HOT. That way there is no smudging
of the traces when you iron. After etching I spray a light coat of laquer on the board , that stops any oxidization. works every time.
I made a board a bit bigger than what you show in less than an 30 minutes with a clothes iron, Kodak photo paper CAT 191 2369, a Kodak ESP-3 printer and Ferric Chloride - less drilling the holes.
Liquid Tin is FAR better than cool-amp. No scrubbing and it's instant.
Anyone interested about the software, look up Eagle by CADsoft.
I've always used Ferric Chloride as an etchant, hadn't heard of using muriatic acid and H2O2, but it seems you would keep a bowl of baking soda mixed with water nearby to dip your measuring cup and board in to neutralize the acid before rinsing in the sink.
You could then pour the echant solution into the baking soda water and neutralize it prior to disposal.
Cool. I do something similar, but since I don't have a laminator I use a clothing iron set to maximum heat.
Don't have a circuit design program so I draw them out on MS Paint, print on plain paper first to check against the size of the components.
To save money, I just use the blank side of old wall calender pages, the ones printed on glossy paper of course. They're free and have had no problem with the transfer.
Bathos!
jh78ghbn56 2 days ago
I use 80 pound highgloss paper with very good results. For double sided boards I put the schematics face to face under a bright light to line up the traces, then I will put three staples on the one end of the paper so they dont move. I then insert the double sided board in between the two pages and set my iron to medium NOT HOT. That way there is no smudging
of the traces when you iron. After etching I spray a light coat of laquer on the board , that stops any oxidization. works every time.
ventureelect 1 month ago
Wow, that's a lot of unnecessary steps.
I made a board a bit bigger than what you show in less than an 30 minutes with a clothes iron, Kodak photo paper CAT 191 2369, a Kodak ESP-3 printer and Ferric Chloride - less drilling the holes.
Liquid Tin is FAR better than cool-amp. No scrubbing and it's instant.
Anyone interested about the software, look up Eagle by CADsoft.
sparky3489 1 month ago
Hi celestialprophecy, i have a schematic diagram but i couldnt convert it to PCB can you help me to convert it please?
yeshecan7 2 months ago
I've always used Ferric Chloride as an etchant, hadn't heard of using muriatic acid and H2O2, but it seems you would keep a bowl of baking soda mixed with water nearby to dip your measuring cup and board in to neutralize the acid before rinsing in the sink.
You could then pour the echant solution into the baking soda water and neutralize it prior to disposal.
Dem0D1ck 4 months ago
Cool. I do something similar, but since I don't have a laminator I use a clothing iron set to maximum heat.
Don't have a circuit design program so I draw them out on MS Paint, print on plain paper first to check against the size of the components.
To save money, I just use the blank side of old wall calender pages, the ones printed on glossy paper of course. They're free and have had no problem with the transfer.
Great tutorial.
Dem0D1ck 4 months ago