3 Anchor Load Distributing

GSAR class, High angle rescue. This si a 3 point anchor system and how to do a load distributing anchor.

Category:

Education

Tags:

• GSAR training
• class
• ropes
• knots
• anchors

[werner111]

Must be isolated. Use Clove hitches.

[moorewood]

Wow, gong show..learnt that back in the day and was suspect back then too. Equalize your anchor in direction of load..tie off a single focal point to eliminate extension if a point fails> "equalization" under load is a myth, the sling bites on it's self and does not equalize as the load shifts.

[shoobear1]

Tthis type of anchor is how rope rescue was done back in the day. There is alot of knowledge out there and testing done to eliminate poor anchor ties. We dont show this anchor tie...if my students dont see it they wont use it.

Canadian GSAR does not show this anchor tie anymore.

[Booshway115]

yah..interesting...there are two big downfall in my opinion. 1st its very complicated. the Second huge problem is that if one piece on the wall fails then you shock-load the other two and that can be really bad!!! But its a cool idea but not very safe unless you are tying to a tree on bolts then I would not be that worried about equalizing

[stacky512a]

@Mankysteve Exactly. That single webbing fails then does the system

[GRIPclimbing]

correct, however the same effect is created with two locking carabiners, less sling length and less time: run the webbing through through all 3 anchor points (creating a big loop). In between the side anchor and the middle anchor - pull the wbbing towards the center of the loop until it touches the opposing side of webbing clip one locking carabiner ( do this to the other side anchor) essentially it looks like a big 'W', has the same effect with less gear, simpler is usually better 

[gssg9]

@Mankysteve This is multidirectional anchor. Used when a person at the end of the rope will have to move far from the direction of the vertical load. This is not used normaly as a top roping anchor. And is used in rescue. fearthespeed comment below describes a more common form of a multi-directional anchor used in trad climbing, although its quite rare to see it used in climbing these days. But still has its place in the right situation.

[Mankysteve]

Anchors are not independent from each other.

[xxxgoodtimesxxx]

look up "Equalette" as described by John Long in his most recent book "Climbing Anchors". It's the simplest, safest answer.

[fearthespeed]

You can make a multidirectional anchor off of 3 points with one carabiner. Pull the two strands in between the anchor points, put a twist in each strand, and clip the three total strands together. This will equalize better than your current setup. Of course, neither of these systems would be redundant.