CLIMBING TOOLS -Sport 101 - The Lower - Part 1

A great percentage of sport climbing accidents happen after the climber reachs the anchor. Next to belayer miscommunication not having a system is the next killer.
This is not a replacement for pro instruction. See part 2 same thing from a diffrent angle. Remember one mistake and it is big pancake! What I am saying is that you have to get this right. There is no room for error. Also check out part 2 which is the same thing but I think it is worth repeating.

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• climbing
• banff
• canada
• sport
• mike
• barter
• joe
• mckay
• rock

[thumlyly]

There are two bolted ring hangers, each with a rappel ring. Why there is a chain and a steel carabiner, we are not told and they are not part of the demonstration, so another anchor should have been used. Using one anchor is bad practice; and using a ring to belay is bad practice. The lead has not made a top-rope rigging with her own gear to be belayed down, and has not properly rappelled on two strands reaching the ground that do not slide through the two rings. Nothing in it is good practice.

[mikebarter387]

@thumlyly Oh boy, Where to start? The anchor actually only has one rap ring. I believe it is a Fixe chain station that is incorrectly placed( horz instead or vert). This anchor was in Spain and there like here no standard system is implimented. Getting lowered off the climb is much more common then fixing a rappell system. The lead does not have to fix her own gear to be lowered. The fixed steel biner is very common in Spain not something I like to use personally but they do there. Bring IT!!

[ivanovivan11]

I know that she is an experienced climber but why didn't she proceed with securing the figure 8 on a bight with an overhand knot or a double fisherman?

[mikebarter387]

@ivanovivan11 There is so much tail it is not required. The overhand is just for show to clean up the knot it is not a structual part of te knot. If the figure 8 is constructed properly there is no need for an additional knot.

[Dwiman89]

Im new to climbing, but isnt this considered rappeling through a "cold shut" anchor and ill advised. I dont trully understand it. It was just in a guidebook I have... I am just top roping for now and only climb things that have safe access to the top in order to set up top rope. My rack isnt equiped enough for this nor do I have the knowledge yet, but i would like learnign the general concepts now.

[mikebarter387]

The woman teaching this is a ACMG mountain guide and mountain Safety Specialist in banff, Canada. The guy filming is a mountain guide with 20 years experience. This shot takes place in Spain and it is how we deal with this type of anchor. We wouldn't show this otherwise. You are right to question us, your book, instructors. Sounds like you are doing things right. good luck out there.

[putamierda1983]

nice boobs!

[ted2758]

MIKE CUTS NOTHING NOSE PICKA!!!

[NearlyDutch]

This is actually bad, overly complicated. I'm suprised this could be seen as an instruction video.

[Cheesemax96]

lol.. you do this on a way that is

- funny

- uncomfortable

- unnecessary

and it looks pretty nerve-wracking (not sure with that word Im not a native english speaker :)

[maxinpains]

the lady has a nice rack...can't believe she had that many childrens...LOL

[mezzanodalaghetto]

Nice boobs!