Tim Kirker

Bistrot Zinc is classic bistro in just about every sense of the word: menu, atmosphere, consistently good food, comfort, very French wine list. The only thing missing are old cranky French waiters that might sniff at a stupid question or two.

Indeed, the menu at Bistrot Zinc (the "Zinc" part of the name has to do with the handsome zinc bar that commands a good portion of the south side of the dining room) flies the French culinary flag from start to finish. Escargots, assiette de charcuterie, poulet, steak au poivre, steak frites, foie de veau, profiteroles ... Even the menu specials were doing a respectable cuisine Francaise by offering brandade, bouillabaisse and grilled poussin, among others.

Is there any dish more French than escargots? I say not. Served in a traditional six-hole escargot plate, the snails all dressed up in an herbed-up garlic butter with a hint of Pernod for good measure, were tender and delicious. A glass of Riesling Reserve from the Alsace was the perfect pairing.

The brandade of cod I ordered from the specials list wasn't up to the standard I set for this dish. It needed a touch of olive oil and a bit more garlic to round it out. Having said that, I ate the whole thing, slathering it across the slices of toasted bread that came with it.

Assiette de charcuterie was a fine appetizer in every respect. Red grapes served as a centerpiece for the rounds of garlic sausage, liver pate, hunks of Brie and chevre, cornichons and toasted walnuts. It could easily serve as a light dinner (along with a glass of white wine).

The entrees that followed were nicely done. Vol au vent en croute is so French you imagine Edith Piaf sitting next to you and singing in your ear. A round of puff pastry was baked, cut in half and arranged on the plate with the "filling," which in this instance was chunks of tender lamb that mingled in a light herb sauce with carrots, onions, celery and a dice of tomato. Sidled up to the puff pastry was an incredibly good pile of creme fraiche mashed potatoes.

No respectable bistro would be caught dead without steak frites on the menu. Bistrot Zinc does this classic proud. Thin pieces of tender steak ("butt" our server said, but I think it was hanger), cooked perfectly medium-rare, got a disc of matire d'hotel butter to gild the lily. And the frites part held up their end of the bargain as they were excellent in every respect.

Category:

Travel & Events

Tags:

• Tim Kirker
• Bistrot Zinc
• Firestone
• Inca Trail
• Machu Picchu

[divalicias]

Good luck Tim! You will definitely be my pick for cooking in Peru!

[hofflawlawyer]

Go for it, Tim!

A great cook, great guy, good athlete.

A truly well-rounded person who'd be perfect for such a challenge.

[spinner6061]

The guy's a legend here in New England. You'd be crazy not to have him as a guide, let alone a chef, on any outdoor excursion.  He's a master in the kitchen and on the trail. I've seen him in action in Alaska and on the continental divide. He's as impressive as he is cool...and that's saying something.

[TillyMinnesota]

This is the guy I want cooking for me on the Inca Trail!