Climbing - First Ascent of Turboprop (E5 6b), with THE fall!

I spotted this route whilst I was still working "Optimus Prime", but didn't get on it for a while because of the bad weather. I thought it'd be much harder than it ended up being, the original intention was to climb it entirely on the left-hand side of the arete. But good holds on the right side made it much more doable - just as well really, it still felt quite hard! A side runner was placed in Old Crack, to the right of the arete, but this was placed from standing at the half-height break - placing it any higher and then downclimbing to the ledge would be cheating, and lower the grade to E4/3/2 depending how high the runner is. As it was, it kept me off the deck by 2 or 3 metres when I fell, so a fall from the very top would be a close thing indeed!

Category:

Sports

Tags:

• rock
• climbing
• extreme
• big
• scary
• fall
• sport
• trad
• ilkley
• E5
• 6b
• turbo
• prop

[92koudy]

Where is it?

[climbingsean]

@92koudy

Where's what exactly? The fall? The route? Ilkley?

[melbournaut]

can you please tell me about the music?

[climbingsean]

@melbournaut Sure, the first track is by The Refused - the track is "Refused are f***ing dead" - it's the version from The Refused EP Compliation (without the vocals, their album The Shape of Punk to Come has the version with all the vocals in). The second track, starting about 3.13, is part-way through Deeper River by Dusted.

[sydneydoc]

Gutsy.

Was that 4 pieces of gear on the 2nd attempt ?

[climbingsean]

Yeah, didn't really fancy taking any more chances second time round - one of the cams ripped on the first fall (you can see it in the video if you look closely), and the krab on the second cam down got bent open in the shock of the fall.

[laserspatula]

that was quiet a fall your risking, i just began leading, would not have the balls to go for it, not yet anyway. classy finish up! 

[rgd1977]

"Lose the rope"

That's a sensible constructive comment, yeah could really of done without that rope at 2.10, what a complete cock you are ChillinCherokee!

[sydneydoc]

Yes, I can see it pop.

Your CG was probably only 2 m above the first piece of gear when you fell ... quite a worry that a fall like that would bend a biner.

[magnetite123456789]

could you not get a large cam in towards the top?