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DREAD with SLEDGE! Port 4 (Part 1)

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Uploaded by on Oct 13, 2011

The first real painting stage! Here we watch a riveting tale o' basing a solid coat onto yer terrain. This be the easiest stage. Trust me...tis all uphill from here! I mean downhill...I mean...YARRR! Even a cabin boy can do it! Do it while watching this video and you'll probably get most of it done.

Here be the paint conversion chart I mentioned!
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

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Gaming

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Uploader Comments (WatergazerRed)

  • If I might add one more prep tip to anyone who has purchased Dreadfleet; Be extremely careful to smooth the edges of the bases that will come into contact with the mat. Any jagged bits of plastic will make a run in the fabric for sure. I would suggest getting a sheet of extremely fine wet/dry sandpaper, cut a section and place it on your workbench then put the base on the paper and gently slide it back and forth, check to make sure it's smooth. Don't forget to do your scenery pieces too! I only

  • @Talos1963:It might be a good idea to round-up the base edges with sandpaper to prevent any snagging. I'll have to test that out.

  • simple green makes the plastic weak, Pinesole work good ( one cap to one 2pints or 30oz or well you get the idea ) also use sandable wet primer, so after your prime you can take a toothbrush ( wet ) and scrub the model to smooth the grit off.

  • @SwimmingInMtDew: I didn't know they made a primer you can wet-sand with! Learnin' somethin' everyday!

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  • I'm with you regarding airbrushing vs hand brushing Vanessa. I find airbrushes great for base coats, priming, and sealing the finished model. I do everything else by hand. Much more relaxing, and less fiddly cleanup!

  • We have a product made by EFD Simply Glues called 'X55'. It is a paint stripper that is 100% safe on styrene. I had to strip my 3rd Ed Space Hulk Minis (Curse you, humidity!!!) and a half hour soak followed up by a gentle rub with a soft toothbrush and the Citadel skull white primer came off without a problem. Not a process I would care to repeat, but it worked with no I'll effects on the styrene.

  • After I started washing my models with soap just before priming I have never had a bad prime.

    I've even primed on rainy days under cover with success.

    Just give it a good rinse with washing soap and a toothbrush to get the release agent off

  • Hi enjoy watching ,looking forward to the ships.

  • i cant wait to see your work finish :P

  • @SwimmingInMtDew: Battlefoam was quick to get one made for the DF box, just like with Space Hulk. I'll soon be purchasing it. Go to their web site & type in "sea foam." I agree with Mportillo78...the masts and sails are thin enough to be a problem for breakage. Not really anything you can do if you drop them from the table but shipping them will be no problem with Battlefoam. Otherwise, you can make your own custom pluck foam tray for them. They'll be hard to transport without any protection.

  • I need something to paint

  • @SwimmingInMtDew Battlefoam does make a custom fit foam for Dreadfleet. It even fits back in the original box, but it does push the lid up some.

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