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How to build a portable mirrored hunting blind

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Uploaded by on Jan 25, 2011

UPDATE: Ghostblind now has a product available for only 160. My take on a portable mirrored hunting blind. Cost about $140 dollars and very light to carry. Most items purchased at home depot.

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Uploader Comments (jimmytubejames)

  • Great vid. I am getting ready to make a version of yours with changes and about $40-$60 cheaper. But before I start, I was wondering if you had used yours yet and the results?

    Reason I ask is I know spray adhesive and spray paint has a strong smell and was wondering if that was detected by the deer or letting it "air out" got rid of the smell?

    Thanks

  • @jmyers73 Sorry it took so long to respond. Yes I have used it. I am not an avid hunter but love to get out in the woods. I had several fox pups get within about 10 feet of the blind one afternoon and they never knew I was there. That was worth the build in my opinion.

  • Corrugated plastic for sign making may work. It is light and cheap but the waviness of the board may produce ripples in the mirror. I would like to see one if anyone can post a video. I am of the opinion if the cost approaches170-180 dollars you might be just as well to buy a commercial product. my 2cents.

  • It has been asked and not answered... How did you apply the reflective material. The box says to use on inside of window. Does not instruct how to use on wood or other material? Did you use the spray adhesive to glue down the reflective material as well as the camo material? You left out the most important part of building the Blind. HOW DID YOU ATTACH THE MIRRORED FILM????????

  • @MrTigerprincess See reply below, thanks. One thing I did do later was get a good sticky quality camo tape and run it around the edges.

  • @jimmytubejames Dear sir: I am desperately trying to figure out how you applied mirrored finish to wood, and was the mirrored product the window film others used or some form of Mylar foil and what made it stick. Your video is completely void of any explanation on the most important step.

  • @MrTigerprincess The fabric backing and mirror film was applied with the spray adhesive. Follow the direction on the film essentially but use the spray adhesive to hold down. My film had a backing which needed removed first. I cut the pieces a bit oversize and then trimmed with a razor. Overall the blind works very well, very light. I was going for the cheapest price. If I would have used Plexiglas or similar material the cost would have been to expensive to justify vs a commercial one.

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This video is a response to DIY Mirror Blind Pt. 1
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  • he probably used the spray adhesive to apply the mirror film...common sense guys.

    

  • you osund like Nicholas Cage

  • I finally received an answer that you used the spray adhesive on the mirrored side of the wood to hold the mylar in place. Thankyou for finally making that clear. I have several suggestions. I have looked at material at Lowes and found a interior paneling that looks pretty durable and only cost $10.oo for a 4x8 sheet. I also found mylar used for wrapping bodies at massage parlors that is 1/5 cost of the window mirrored film. I am not sure if it is durable enough but I am checking.

  • unless you take the time to waterproof it, but then its still gonna stink like waterproofer rather than must, but you would still have the problem of the plywood soaking up water like a sponge, then bubbling the foil, ultimately peeling everything off...like i said, good job overall...i love the fact that peope are making their own in lieu of paying out the ass!!

  • good job overall...there are some things to think about though- when i made mine, i stayed away from wood, yes it would be lighter, but you have to take into consideration the swelling if you have it out in the rain...you also would have to think about the adhesive losing tack after being exposed to the elements...thats why i chose plexiglass. although i like the fabric hinges and glued fabric backing, you would have to think about mold...if it gets wet, its gonna start to stink cont'd

  • @MrTigerprincess You are going to have to apply several coats of a sanding sealer to get the surface real smooth. Sand with 120 grit and remove dust with a tack cloth. I used contact cement to apply the fabric (it cheaper and better) to two outer panels have to be space 1/2" apart and the center is butted together. I made my peep hole 12" from the top, its even with the gun port. Gun port is 4" wide.(2" on each panel) the carrying holes are about 9 1/2" from the bottom of the gun port. Nice

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